The top line: Six years after its closure and almost 200 years since it was opened as a coffee shop and club, iconic restaurant Simpson’s in the Strand has reopened under the auspices of season restaurateur Jeremy King. King has lovingly and painstakingly restored the grand Grade II Listed building on London’s Strand (although work in it is yet to be completed), which is home to quintessential English dining room The Grand Divan on the ground floor, while up an imposing staircase is the brighter and more casual English restaurant Romano’s. The building also houses the beautiful art deco styled Simpson’s Bar on the first floor and the subterranean late-night bar Nellie’s as well as private ballroom the Assembly Room on the first floor. A legion of former employees during King’s ownership of Corbin & King have joined him in his endeavours, including general manager Michael Johnston, who was previously GM at Brasserie Zedel; group executive chef David Stevens, formerly The Wolseley group executive chef; Grand Divan head chef Ed Ross, previously at The Wolseley; and group beverage director Sean Kelly.
The food: Open for breakfast through dinner, the Grand Divan has previously played host to esteemed guests such as Winston Churchill and PG Wodehouse, who presumably didn’t come for tofu salads and spirulina smoothies. To that end the food is hearty and comfortingly old fashioned by design, with a breakfast offer that includes ‘The Ten Deadly Sins’ (pictured) an artery-clogging plate comprising Cumberland sausage, scrambled egg, streaky and back bacon, black pudding, fried mushrooms, baked tomato, kidney, fried bread, bubble & squeak and baked beans. A la carte options on the lunch menu include a generous selection of seafood, soups, salads and cold cuts of salmon, duck and beef. In keeping with tradition, the menu is vast and all encompassing, with other options such as boiled ham and parsley sauce; railway mutton curry; and Woolton pie. Simpson’s famous silver trolleys have returned, along with its Master Carvers (pictured above), serving roast rib of Devonshire beef, and there’s also a daily changing pie menu. At dinner don’t overlook the whole rabbit, morel mushrooms and grain mustard fricassee for two to share, and save room for a slice of treacle tart or spotted dick and custard. Unsurprisingly, the wine list has a Gallic focus, with a comprehensive selection of champagnes, burgundies, and bordeaux, but some English still and sparkling wines as well as those from the rest of Europe can be found. Romano’s, meanwhile, promises a ‘lighter side of English dining’, but is yet to open.
The vibe: Stately. Imposing. Opulent. Masculine (in parts). Beautiful. There are plenty of adjectives to describe the revived Simpson’s, which blends Edwardian styling and Georgian-inspired aesthetics with that of art deco depending on which part of the building you happen to be in. The wood panelled Grand Divan has the old school gentleman’s club/grill room feel thanks to it being returned to its original Edwardian style with deep red velvet and leather upholstery, hardwood flooring and high-backed seating along two sides of the room, while Romano’s references neoclassical designs with its faux marble columns, Wedgwood-inspired friezes, and green leather upholstery. Immediately outside its doors in Simpson’s Bar the styling is more early art deco. To step through the doors of Simpson’s then is to sweep through different eras all connected by a strong sense of design.
And another thing: Simpson’s in the Strand may have reopened six years after it last closed its doors, but the project has been more than a quarter century in the making, with King saying he first set on the idea of taking on the restaurant back in 2000.
100 Strand, London, WC2R 0EZ / www.simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk/