The top line: Charlie Mellor is back with an Italian restaurant in Soho. Just down from Noble Rot at the northern end of Greek Street, Osteria Vibrato is a compact, two-floor space seating 45 that’s aimed at a broad Soho crowd spanning theatre-goers, media workers and tourists. As the name suggests, Mellor is looking to recreate the osteria: a typically casual sub-genre of Italian restaurant offering a tight menu of traditional dishes alongside local wines.
On the menu: This isn’t a backstreet in Florence or an Umbrian hilltop, however, so Mellor draws on crowd-pleasing but authentic dishes from across Italy. Antipasti and primi include seafood fritto misto; cotechino with plum mostarda and crushed swede; shaved artichokes with pecorino romano and top quality olive oil; ricotta tortelli with tomato and butter; and tagliatelle with white courtyard ragù (pictured below). More substantial dishes include pumpkin stuffed with rice and chestnuts with Parmigiano fondue, and grilled sole with Pantelleria capers. One side of the menu is in English, the other in Italian. There’s a clear sense of nostalgia, with Mellor steering away from technicality in favour of comfort and generosity. The 300-bin selection centred on natural, biodynamic and low-intervention wines, with a strong Italian core and notable French presence, including grower Champagne. The list balances character with approachability, avoiding overly challenging bottles in favour of wines that suit both the menu and a broad Soho audience, while still offering the occasional rarity from Mellor’s personal cellar.
The vibe: The Australian-born Mellor - whose CV also includes cult East London restaurants P.Franco and Brawn knows how to create atmosphere. Expect staff in crisp white jackets, equally well turned out tablecloths, flickering candlelight and an eclectic soundtrack that plays out through expensive looking speakers at just the right volume. The room is unshowy but handsome, with a custom terrazzo floor, rosewood veneer panels lining lime-plastered walls, and leather banquettes upholstered in hides sourced from ex-dairy cows.
And another thing: Osteria Vibrato is part of a new wave of central London restaurants that eschew the chef-led, special-occasion model, instead prioritising accessibility, recognisable dishes and extended opening hours while retaining a strong sense of identity.
6 Greek St, London W1D 4DE