Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I grew up in the countryside on a Tuscan island, surrounded by vineyards – those of my neighbours and my uncle, who runs Azienda Agricola Montefabbrello. My grandfather also had two small parcels near our house, where he made wine in traditional damigiana (demijohn) glass vessels for himself, storing hundreds of bottles of wine and grappa in a small cantina at the back of his house. From a young age, I was able to observe vineyard management and rustic winemaking through him. I loved spending time with my grandfather, so I became fascinated by everything he did. Everyone in my family and circle of friends had some connection to wine.
Describe your wine list at Ikoyi
Ikoyi is a young restaurant. After moving to a new location at the end of 2022 and earning our second Michelin star in 2023, our goal has been to expand and reshape the wine list. In 2024, it featured around 200 labels, mostly from low-intervention, small producers, with an extensive selection of grower Champagnes and a focus on favourite French regions such as the Loire Valley, Jura and Burgundy. We also included a carefully curated selection of producers from around the world, with iconic wines from Italy, the US, Germany, Austria and Spain. By 2025, we had expanded from roughly 200 to 500 labels, increased our focus on Burgundy, reshaped our New World offering and added exclusive producer collaborations such as Champagne Salon, Krug, Jacques Selosse, Ulysse Collin and Lamy-Caillat. White wines make up the majority of the list, reflecting our style of cuisine. For reds, we favour lighter, fresher and more savoury styles. Sake is also featured, with around 15 bottles rotating and six cuvées available for pairings and by the glass.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Wild Izakaya, Planque and any of the Noble Rot sites.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Agnieszka Świecka MS, who inspired me to study wine in depth while I was working at Pollen Street Social. I also have immense respect for true wine producers rather than big companies – people who farm the land, make the wines and bring them to you.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I’ve tried some incredible single-vineyard wines from Tanca Nica in Sicily. The Bugerer 2023 really stands out – fewer than 150 bottles are made in special vintages. It’s such a pleasure to drink: energetic, salty and mineral – a true Zibibbo.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Minerality is definitely overused, often because it’s trendy rather than accurate. Elegant is another, especially for wines that are anything but. Finally, terroir-driven. Many conventional wines are irrigated, farmed intensively, then filtered, fined and adjusted. While I can often identify grape, style and region, that’s very different from a wine that truly reflects its place – one that evokes the rocks, flowers and trees of its vineyard.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
It depends on what you like. Thomas Batardière Chenin Blanc, Noëls de Montbenault 2022 is an incredible-value white, while Domaine Labet Trousseau, Les Chaseaux 2023 is a fantastic red.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Nothing beats Vin Santo and cantucci. I sometimes overthink pairings from a scientific perspective, so I like to return to the roots – regional, traditional combinations shaped over time by local ingredients and history.
Old World or New World?
Is there still a big difference? I’d say Old World, as I tend to enjoy more savoury, rustic styles from historic European regions. That said, I’ve also had some fantastic New World wines made with real respect for their place.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I’m very sensitive to glass detergent – I can smell it in most restaurants I visit, including our own. I tend to keep the first glass once it’s ‘seasoned’ with wine. But if a glass smells of a dirty cloth, it’s really disappointing. This happened recently in France and it affected my enjoyment of some beautiful Loire Chenin Blancs.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Richard Leroy. I’m a big Chenin Blanc fan and love ripe, dry whites with electric acidity, concentrated minerality and intense flavour. What draws me to Leroy is his philosophy: he farms with the utmost respect for the land, creating wines that truly express terroir. His work with yeasts is particularly fascinating and something I want to explore further.
As a restaurant, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“What is orange wine?” or “Is sake made like wine?” It fascinates me that these drinks, which are very popular in some circles, are still largely unknown to many people.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Styria in Austria.. It rarely appears in textbooks or wine lists, partly due to the complicated relationship between producers and national legislation. But the region itself is incredible: steep vineyards, varied soils, diverse aspects and elevations, and extraordinary biodiversity.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
If it’s truly my last meal, I’m not chasing a trophy bottle. Give me a bottle of my uncle’s Azienda Agricola Montefabbrello Aleatico Passito DOCG with a piece of schiaccia briaca and I’ll be happy. Aleatico DOCG is the only DOCG on Elba, reserved for the island’s sweet wines made using the traditional appassimento method. Paired with schiaccia ‘briaca’ – made with raisins, Aleatico and Alchermes – it’s a perfect expression of tradition, sweetness and nostalgia.