The top line: Thesleff Group has launched a glamorous Italian restaurant at central London hotel The Langham. Sale e Pepe Mare occupies the space that was, for many years, home to Roux at The Landau and, more recently, Mimosa, which closed after less than six months. As the name suggests, the new concept leans heavily into seafood. Thesleff Group – which is also behind Los Mochis – acquired Sale e Pepe from founder Toni Corricelli, who opened the original near Harrods in 1974. While the Knightsbridge site has since been refurbished and the menu updated, the Langham opening marks a defining moment for the brand, giving the group a much larger and grander space to work with than the original, which is notably compact.
On the menu: Fans of the OG Sale e Pepe will find some of the brand’s classic dishes, including tiramisu, lobster linguine with Datterino tomatoes and basil, and the restaurant’s signature bucatini cacio e pepe, finished tableside in a cheese wheel. The majority of the menu, however, is new, showcasing a lighter, more contemporary take on Italian cooking. Highlights include spigola crudo with trout roe and Espelette pepper; bluefin tuna on baked brioche with confit tomato and garlic; and an impressive shellfish tower. A key feature is a selection of whole fish, which is cooked skillfully and also handled with considerable dexterity in the dining room with the team having clearly received extensive training. The wine offering has also been significantly expanded. Alongside a strong Italian selection – with big names such as Sassicaia, Gaja and Tignanello – some French heavy hitters have snuck in too, not least Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. A Champagne trolley adds a sense of theatre, while the cocktail list draws on 1950s nostalgia, reworking classics with premium and, in some cases, vintage spirits. For digestifs, the bar boasts one of London’s largest collections of amaro, all priced at £10 per serve.
The vibe: Thesleff Group has made full use of the already impressive dining room. The 5,000 sq ft space seats 94, with a private dining room for up to 18 guests. Design details include warm wood panelling, plush Italian fabrics and an impressive marble bar. The overall effect is a confident blend of Italian Riviera elegance and classic London hotel dining.
And another thing: Thesleff Group is not slowing down. Next month, it will open another ambitious project: MA/NA, on the western edge of Mayfair, just off Park Lane. The restaurant promises a refined and creative take on Japanese cuisine.
1C Portland Place, London W1B 1JA