The top line: Located on Piccadilly, Fenix is a 160-cover restaurant that occupies the former site of the cafe bar Henry’s and is positioned as a Greek-Mediterranean concept inspired by the country’s dining culture. The restaurant follows the launch of Fenix in Manchester in 2023 and forms a part of Permanently Unique Group’s wider portfolio, which includes the contemporary Asian concept Tattu and Louis, an Italian-American restaurant brand.
The menu: Fenix Mayfair offers a sharing-style menu centred on local produce led by executive chef Zisis Giannouras, drawing inspiration from his time living and working in both Northern Greece and the Cyclades islands. Meze dishes include hot options such as spicy meatballs with tomato salsa and coriander yoghurt; and fried calamari with onions, coriander, lime-olive oil dressing and spicy mayo; alongside cold dishes such as tuna truffle and caviar tartare. Mains feature grilled octopus with fava purée and parsley vinaigrette; wagyu ‘stifado’ with braised onions, spices and cumin potato emulsion; and a 150-day grain-fed Angus rib-eye steak with sautéed pickled cabbage and cauliflower cream. Pasta and rice dishes are also available, including Aegean beef and bone marrow made with tarhana pasta – a pebble-shaped fermented pasta made from cracked wheat, bulgur, or flour mixed that is common in Greek, Turkish, and Middle Eastern cuisine, and another made with orzo and langoustine which is given the Greek treatment with the addition of ouzo and feta cheese. For dessert, Greek ice cream and loukoumades are a highlight, served on a lazy Susan-style plate with condiments including candied walnuts, berries and Greek doughnuts. Given the Greek-leaning nature of the concept you’d expect more wines from the Aegean to feature, but while there are a few from Crete and Greece the list in general is more international with wines from France, Italy, Argentina and the US also making an appearance. For those looking to end their meal in style (is it Mayfair, darling) Louis XIII cognac is available to round off proceedings, priced from £70 for a 10ml serving up to £340 for 50ml.
The vibe: Created by Studio WYZE, the restaurant balances a strong Mediterranean warmth with polished city sophistication, as the venue evolves from a lighter daytime setting into a more atmospheric evening destination. Designed as a modern interpretation of Greek island conviviality, the space centres on an open kitchen with a live-fire grill that adds a sense of theatre to the room. The decor throughout also leans into ancient Greek influences, including sculptural plaster arches guiding the flow through the different zones of the restaurant, transitioning seamlessly from the bar into the dining room. Within the dining room, natural textures dominate, including striking light fixtures suspended overhead. Atmosphere is clearly a priority with loud music giving the room a lively pulse, while intentionally low lighting adds to the ambience but has some diners reaching for phone torches to read the menu. Ultimately, the restaurant is well-tailored to the Mayfair audience, where image carries just as much importance as what arrives on the plate.
And another thing: Permanently Unique is due to open a third Fenix, in Dubai, later this year although the current war in Iran could hamper its progress.
Stratton House, 80 Piccadilly, London W1J 8HX