Later this month, Aktar Islam will make his London debut with Oudh 1722. Close to Borough Market, the restaurant will explore Awadhi cuisine – a refined, historic culinary tradition born from the royal courts of northern India, known for its intricate techniques, slow cooking and layered, aromatic flavours.
Though not widely known among the general dining public in the UK, it is – he says – analogous to classical French cuisine in how it is regarded by Indian chefs. Oudh 1722’s launch marks an exciting moment for Indian gastronomy in London. Launched in 2018 in Birmingham, Opheem is the most progressive Indian restaurant in the UK and one of just two Indian restaurants to hold two Michelin stars.
While Oudh 1722 looks set to be high-end – Aktar says he wants it to be one of the best places to eat in the capital – it will be a different proposition to its tasting menu-only Midlands sibling, with a focus on à la carte dining.
It will be interesting to see the impact it has in London, where competition at the top end of the Indian restaurant space is intense. There are six Michelin-starred Indian restaurants in the capital, and the launch of Oudh 1722 will roughly coincide with the opening of Trèsind Mayfair, the London outpost of the team behind Dubai three-star Trèsind Studio, and Bulbul, a contemporary Indian restaurant from a group that has a proven track record of operating high-end restaurants in the subcontinent.
Set across three floors of a listed Victorian building, Islam’s 80-cover Union Street restaurant will showcase the finesse of Awadhi cooking with a menu that moves from shorba (a delicate broth) to kebabs, dum-cooked dishes and curries designed for sharing.
While he is excited to finally be in the capital, Islam is concerned about the prospects of the wider hospitality sector, particularly in his home city, which has seen an exodus of top restaurants in recent years.
He argues this is the result of long-term government neglect, with the past two years proving particularly damaging and exposing what he sees as systemic exploitation of the sector. Despite contributing disproportionately to tax revenues, he believes hospitality businesses are being taken for a ride, with policymakers relying on the assumption that failed venues will quickly be replaced.
Islam also gives an update on his upcoming Bristol restaurant, Kush. First revealed via an Instagram post last September, the project will be located in the former site of Indian restaurant The Mint Room in Clifton, one of the south west’s most upmarket areas.
Has it always been an ambition to launch in London?
Yes, I think most UK chefs want to come to the capital at some point. Opheem was originally supposed to be in Mayfair, but I pulled out at the last minute and decided to keep it in Birmingham because I felt I needed to invest in my home city. Eight years on, I’m fulfilling that dream. It’s exciting, and it’s nice to be in London. I have a lot of great friends here.
Oudh 1722 looks to be a very different proposition to Opheem
They are at opposite ends of the spectrum. Opheem is progressive – we’re always looking at the next step and the next evolution of Indian cuisine. Oudh will look back, celebrating a particular period in Awadhi cuisine and culture. I want to show my breadth as a chef by doing something more classic. Indian chefs revere Awadhi cuisine in a similar way to how European chefs revere classical French cuisine. It’s where the refinement of Indian cuisine took place. That’s not to take away from other regions and their own development, but Awadhi cuisine is special.
What are its hallmarks?
It’s big on dairy and meat. It’s aromatic and complex. Heat is there, but it’s not the predominant flavour profile. Acidity is used to balance, but the focus is on rounder, richer and more indulgent flavours. It’s not harder to cook than other Indian cuisines – it takes skill and understanding to cook any dish properly. But it is more labour-intensive. There are a lot of long cooking processes and a great deal of refinement. It’s quite complex and demanding to produce.
Will Oudh 1722 be a fine dining restaurant?
A lot of people bandy around the term ‘fine dining’ these days. I’m not sure if it means anything anymore. Is Wilson’s in Bristol a fine dining restaurant, for example? It holds a star, but it’s very different to somewhere like The Ritz. The ambition is to be among the best restaurants in the capital. I don’t do anything by halves. My goal is always for it to be the best it can be – and by that, I don’t mean better than other people, but the best that I can make it. Oudh will be a comfortable space, using the best ingredients this country has to offer, cooked with great care. The guest experience will be paramount. We will have an à la carte menu, and we will also introduce a feasting menu that takes guests on a journey through the cuisine.
Given it’s so skills-intensive, how have you found staffing?
The core team is made up of London-based chefs with a mix of backgrounds, including Indian cuisine. They have been working with me at Opheem for the past few months to understand my processes and practise cooking the menu. For me, it’s more about having people with great attitudes who are willing to learn and evolve. I will cook at Oudh, splitting my time between there and Opheem. It’s a business I’m heavily invested in and one I have great hopes and aspirations for. It’s my restaurant. I don’t have investors, as is also the case with Opheem and Aktar at Home.
How are things at Opheem?
It’s busy, and the product is continuously moving forward. We have an incredible kitchen in terms of facilities – probably the best of any Indian restaurant in the world – and a great, passionate team. They have everything they need to continue pushing forward and doing what I set out to achieve with Opheem, which is to define the future development of Indian cuisine. I’ve been cooking progressive Indian cuisine for 26 years, so I started a long time before many of the chefs who are part of the movement now.
What about Birmingham more generally?
Hospitality has declined in the city in recent years. You can’t ignore that. It’s not a case of “I’m alright, so everything is fine”. It bothers me that other good places are having a hard time. We’re seeing a massive injustice that is a direct result of Government policy. The last two years have been disastrous, and we haven’t been looked after as an industry for many years. This is the culmination of that. We have been abused and exploited by the powers that be. We are 3-4% of GDP but contribute up to 10% of the government’s tax take. As an industry, we are being milked. Opheem has never been about profit, but when I look at what we give to HMRC compared to what we take as business owners, it’s ridiculous. The government preys on us, taking advantage of the fact that if one hospitality business closes, another is likely to open in the same space before too long.
Is there an update on your delayed Bristol restaurant project, Kush?
Sadly, the original group of young people I was going to invest in didn’t work out. They couldn’t deliver on their part. I’m looking to invest in some talented young people in Bristol and when I find the right people, I will work with them to create something special. Kush will reflect the personalities of the people behind it but will be in line with the youthful spirit of Bristol.