The top line: Named after the Roman word for ‘Venus’ as the evening star rather than the cocktail, Vesper occupies a plum 70-cover corner site in Exmouth Market just round the corner from The Quality Chop House and providing prime people watching opportunities. Boxer, who is also behind London restaurants Dove and Brunswick House among others, describes his new project as offering ‘grown up pleasure and childlike joy’ and being ‘naturally cosmopolitan in outlook’ and fiercely proud of its produce.
On the menu: Boxer has evidently had fun putting together Vesper’s menu, with dishes that have allowed him to be creative and play around with a large larder of ingredients. The menu kicks off with snacks such as a spring onion pancake with raw tuna and Cantabrian anchovy that features a heftier than expected slice of tuna; and raw beef tostada with scallop roe and lardo, while larger dishes include a light and airy fried potato pizzette generously topped with stracciatella, mortadella, and mostarda; squid stuffed with a shrimp and Middlewhite boudin with salted egg yolk; and chicken liver agnolotti swimming in a rich and satisfying madeira jus. There’s also dishes to share, such as roast half chicken with bread sauce; and a chuck eye ‘Diane’ with grilled maitake and baked saffron rice, and the duck fat fries with mushroom mayonnaise are also particularly good. Drinks wise, a Vesper martini is on the menu alongside aperitifs such as sherry and tonic, Pastis and ice cold water, and Suntory whisky and soda and a good selection of beers and ciders and soft drinks. The wine list is predominantly European, with half bottles and chilled reds on offer.
The vibe: Designed by Jeramaine Gallacher, Vesper has a bar at the entrance, a candlelit dining room and a terrace of bistro tables out the front. There’s something of the St John about its whitewashed brick interior that gives the dining room a buzzy feel and which suits perfectly its location.
And another thing: Boxer’s Notting Hill restaurant Dove is known for its burger, and you can order an off-menu burger at Vesper.
8-10 Exmouth Market, London EC1r 4QA / vesper.restaurant/