The top line: As the name suggest, this new venue in Shoreditch has been designed to capture the spirit of the great British tavern of old but also feels manages to feel modern and vibey in the process. The kitchen has strong pedigree, led by executive chef Brendan Appleby, whose CV includes Pam Brunton’s Loch Fyne restaurant Inver as well as Silo and Lyle’s and who served as head chef at Restaurant St Barts for the past two years alongside head chef Kirsty Easterbrook, formerly sous chef at Restaurant St Barts.
On the menu: Tavern’s menu is on point with enough to keep you interested and no fluff. To start, there’s fire bread with wild garlic’; and smoked cod’s roe with ridiculously long crisp pig skins served in a tankard; followed by larger snacks such as a crab and seaweed muffin; St Brides chicken skewers with a British take on satay sauce, and its signature ‘chunion’ puff - a molten cheese and onion gougère. Across the menu, seasonal British produce takes centre stage in dishes such as asparagus with brown butter hollandaise and cured St Ewe’s yolk; and a sausage that was made with pork and cuttlefish with mustard on our visit but subsequent variations include a pork and octopus chorizo with pickled red onion. Larger dishes include Cornish cod with cockles, peas, beans and laverbread; tandoori mallard moat quail; and Welsh wagyu flat iron, Essex chickpeas and green sauce but only after you’ve tucked into th interim course of a crispy veal sweetbread burger. And make sure you also order one of Tavern’s pickleback Martinis. There are two from which to choose - one with gin, pickled red bell pepper and chilli; and another made with vodka and pickled goat horn pepper.
The vibe: Quality Chop House meets St John (or Vesper) is the vibe that Tavern gives off in its dining room, which features white tablecloths, dark candlelight and whitewashed wood panelled walls. The bar area at the front of the restaurant as you walk in is atmospheric and inviting, creating a space that is equally suitable for a quick bite to eat and a drink as a it is a full-blown dinner (again like St John).
And another thing: You’ll want to finish your meal with one of Tavern’s small brown butter cakes. But be careful and don’t do what we did on our visit (and have heard tale of others doing the same) and allow the topping to topple off before you bite it.
374-378 Old Street, London, EC1V 9LT / www.tavernlondon.co.uk/