Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
As a child, my grandfather would often host big family parties and the ritual around selecting the right Champagne or bottle of wine for the occasion always fascinated me. I would help serve the glasses and, if I was lucky, I’d get a little sip. Those early experiences planted a seed, but it wasn’t until later in life, while working in event sales, that I started recommending wine to guests and began taking a more deliberate approach to learning about it.
Describe your wine list at Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall
Our wine list has more than 1,000 references spanning Old World classics such as first-growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy, alongside icon wines from the New World. I also try to showcase lesser-known regions and countries, including Azerbaijan, Serbia, Slovakia, Romania and Peru.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
There have been plenty of heart-stopping moments, particularly during my early years, from dropping a bottle of 1961 Château Latour to spilling a glass of Champagne on a guest’s Hermès bag. Luckily, both the guest and my colleagues were very understanding on both occasions.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Trivet’s list, curated by Master Sommelier Isa Bal, is ordered according to each wine’s historical and social journey, with plenty of creative and adventurous choices. Core by Clare Smyth has great depth, plenty of mature wines and an excellent mix of Old and New World bottles. Lastly, The 10 Cases is a really relaxed wine bar with a dynamic by-the-glass and bottle selection at great prices. I’ve enjoyed many a long lunch there.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Jasper Morris’s dedication to understanding one of the world’s oldest and most complex wine regions is remarkable. I find his writing style approachable, and the accessibility of his communication on Burgundy helped me fall in love with the region and its many producers.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I recently tasted a 1969 Ramisco Collares Tinto from Viúva Gomes, which was breathtaking. It’s from one of Portugal’s most historic wine regions, where ungrafted vines are grown in deep sandy soils, and production is minuscule. On the palate there were savoury balsamic notes and dried herbs, but, surprisingly for its age, there was still plenty of dark fruit, cherry, grippy tannins and lively acidity.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
‘Fruity’, ‘smooth’ and ‘minerality’ are often used quite generously to encompass a broad range of styles and flavours. I think sometimes people are afraid to say something silly, so they revert to the same tried-and-tested tasting notes.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment? (And why?)
We have a Pálava by Martin Pomfy from the Small Carpathians in Slovakia. It has a beautiful aromatic complexity similar to Viognier, but with a bracing acidity and delicacy. Guests are often a little hesitant to try it, but it’s always a joy to see their delight when they taste it and experience the excitement of discovering something new. Those moments of revelation are what you live for as a sommelier.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Simple pairings are often my favourite. Oysters and an Alsace Riesling are hard to beat. I also recently had truffle ice cream with a 1954 Pedro Ximénez sherry, which was out of this world.
Old World or New World?
The distinction between Old and New World is becoming increasingly blurred. Australia, for example, has a wealth of vineyards that are more than 100 years old, while South Africa’s Klein Constantia dates back to 1685. England, meanwhile, is part of the Old World but has an exciting and relatively young wine industry. My own wine journey, and I believe the experience of our guests, has been greatly enriched by both. That interplay between history and tradition and modernity and innovation is what makes the world of wine so exciting.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I’m fairly relaxed, particularly if it’s a simple restaurant. If I’m with friends or family, I don’t mind slow service or the occasional lapse in wine etiquette, but rude or arrogant staff are hard to excuse.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I love Eben Sadie’s wines and, coming from South Africa, it’s exciting to see someone shine a light on the quality that can be achieved from the unique landscape of the Swartland. His flagship wines, Columella and Palladius, are rightly becoming recognised on the global stage, while his approach to reviving old vineyards through soil regeneration and organic farming has set a precedent for many young winemakers to follow.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“Is the wine dry?” Often guests don’t mean sweetness in the literal sense; they’re looking for something that isn’t especially fruity or aromatic.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Portugal. It has a long history, a vast array of indigenous grape varieties and still offers incredible value.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Many of my greatest drinking experiences have come from red Burgundy and, while the prices have unfortunately become stratospheric, at their best they have a beguiling, ethereal quality that’s hard to beat. Domaine Roumier Les Amoureuses or Henri Jayer Cros Parantoux would be a nice way to go out.