It’s not difficult to see what attracted Paul Ainsworth to the St Enodoc Hotel. Perched above Rock – the affluent Cornish village sometimes dubbed Kensington-on-Sea because of its popularity with wealthy Londoners, not least his former boss Gordon Ramsay – the property enjoys sweeping views across the Camel Estuary.
It is, in many ways, the sort of place hospitality dreams are made of: a postcard-perfect setting, an affluent customer base and, on top of that, a location in which Ainsworth and his wife Emma have already created a mini empire. Their businesses include the Michelin-starred No.6 across the water in Padstow and The Mariners pub, just down the hill from the hotel.
But the Ainsworths have not simply opened another restaurant here. They have bought the hotel outright.
No reward without risk
With this move, the Ainsworths have joined the swelling ranks of chefs pitching up in hotels – last month Tom Sellers launched a restaurant at Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate, further down the north Cornwall coast in St Ives – but usually through management contracts, partnerships and other models that limit their financial exposure.
Yet buying a hotel is a different proposition entirely. With significant staffing and maintenance requirements, hotels have a well-earned reputation for swallowing up capital. Taking one on at a time when rising costs, recruitment pressures and fragile consumer confidence have created some of the toughest trading conditions the hospitality sector has experienced in recent memory might seem cavalier at best, something which Ainsworth is all too aware.
I’ve remortgaged our family home. I’ve taken big indemnities out on The Ainsworth Collection. I’ve borrowed a tonne of money to do this
“If this goes wrong, that’s it,” he says matter-of-factly, admitting that he has had a few wobbles since purchasing the property early last year.
“I’ve remortgaged our family home. I’ve taken big indemnities out on The Ainsworth Collection. I’ve borrowed a tonne of money to do this.”
Scary stuff. But for the friendly and boisterously energetic 47-year-old, the risk is inseparable from the opportunity. The same conditions that make the project so daunting – a difficult hotel market, rising costs and uncertainty across hospitality – are also what made the acquisition possible in the first place.
“It’s high risk, but we could not do what I’m doing now in a thriving market. Absolutely not. This business would not be on the market and, even if it was, we wouldn’t be able to afford it. We have a sleeping giant here.”
Ramsay’s influence
Ainsworth arrived in Cornwall in 2005 after a six-year stint with Gordon Ramsay (he can even be spotted cooking at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Boiling Point, the documentary that helped propel his former boss to global fame) and over the past two decades has become one of Cornwall’s best-known and most successful chefs. Alongside the Michelin-starred No.6, The Ainsworth Collection now includes Mediterranean restaurant Caffè Rojano, Ci Ci’s Bar and the six-suite Padstow Townhouse.
Gordon has been a huge inspiration. He showed me how to see an opportunity during a dark time for hospitality and work my nuts off to make it happen. I would never compare myself to him, but this is mine and Emma’s Bishopsgate
With so much already built, Ainsworth has plenty to lose. It turns out that part of what convinced him to take on the St Enodoc was watching Ramsay embark on his own most ambitious venture yet: the development of 22 Bishopsgate in the City of London, where the chef has opened three restaurants, a bar and a cookery school 269 metres above ground.
“Gordon has been a huge inspiration. He showed me how to see an opportunity during a dark time for hospitality and work my nuts off to make it happen. I would never compare myself to him, but this is mine and Emma’s Bishopsgate.”
The comparison is apt, albeit on a rather smaller scale and much closer to sea level.
“The plan was to get in there and see how it ran,” says Ainsworth, who operated the business largely as it was for much of 2025. “The reality was that we moved in and we were like: ‘Oh shit!’”
As is an all-too-common story in the hotel business, the property had suffered from years of underinvestment and looked tired and dated. A new menu was introduced and some of the issues were addressed, including repairing and, in some cases, replacing furniture. But it soon became apparent to the couple that the only possible course of action was to rip it all up and start again.
The biggest problem they identified was food and drink. Selling bedrooms was not the issue, but much of the hotel’s extensive ground-floor space generated little revenue.
“There was a lot of space not being used,” says Ainsworth. “Residents had the place to themselves, sitting around nursing cups of coffee. Nobody has ever really got the F&B right here.”
The takeover and subsequent redevelopment inevitably brought changes to the team, but Ainsworth is effusive about the staff who remained.
“The ones that have stayed are superstars. Good staff are hard to find down here, so that has been a big bonus for this project.”
Reimagining the St Enodoc
Making the food and drink offer work has required a complete reconfiguration of the hotel. The front of the building has been extended to create a 120-seat terrace, alongside a large all-day restaurant, The Estuary Grill by Paul Ainsworth, and a more casual concept, Flour Garden, positioned beneath the main terrace.
The reception, which previously divided the hotel awkwardly in two, has been relocated to the side of the building. The change has created a far stronger sense of arrival, augmented by a slick number plate recognition system that allows the team to identify guests as they approach and park their cars for them.
Drawing inspiration from Soho Farmhouse, The Newt, Estelle Manor and Lime Wood, Ainsworth wants the St Enodoc to be as much a destination for locals and day visitors as it is for overnight guests.
“That, for me, is the future of hotels. You can’t have a business that rests just on the residents. We’ll obviously look after those staying with us very well, but this hotel is for everybody.”
That ambition also explains his decision not to pursue fine dining.
“A lot of people expected me to open a fine dining restaurant here, but I already have that across the water in Padstow with No.6,” he adds. “I need this place to be buzzy. I want people to feel they can come in for a club sandwich and a pint. Having a top-end restaurant here gets in the way of that.”
You can’t have a business that rests just on the residents. We’ll obviously look after those staying with us very well, but this hotel is for everybody
In common with the rest of the overhauled and newly created spaces at the St Enodoc, the 120-cover Estuary Grill eschews the well-trodden Cornish seaside aesthetic of driftwood, pale blue and white stripes, seagulls and cutlery served in metal buckets.
“I wouldn’t knock it, but we have never done it. It’s all outside,” says Ainsworth, gesturing towards the windows and the estuary beyond. “The aim is for it to feel luxurious, but never to the point that it becomes intimidating.”
Bringing authentic Indian cooking to Cornwall
Pre-launch communications described The Estuary Grill as being inspired by the Indian Ocean and the Seychelles, reflecting Ainsworth’s maternal heritage. In practice, this translates into a broad menu divided between classic Indian dishes and more familiar Western fare.
To develop the Indian side of the offer, Ainsworth worked with Aktar Islam, the chef behind Birmingham’s two-Michelin-starred Opheem, to create authentic versions of curries, biryanis and street food-inspired dishes.
“I’ve never tapped into my mum’s heritage before. We’re not trying to do Opheem or Gymkhana. It’s more laid-back, a little like what Aktar is doing at his new place, Oudh 1722.
“You can come here and have a beautiful Indian experience with papadums, lamb shank biryani and kebabs. We even have Cobra on draught. But the other half of the menu is more British, so you can have oysters followed by a burger.”
Ainsworth admits that Cornwall’s relative shortage of high-quality, spice-driven restaurants was also a major factor in the decision to make close to half of the menu Indian.
Dishes include keema pav served with warm milk buns; chicken Chettinad; and a king prawn and monkfish Alleppey curry. The Western side of the menu offers contemporary takes on grill staples – oysters, Caesar salad, cheeseburgers, steaks and a seafood tower – alongside less obvious additions, including a selection of sushi.
I’ve never tapped into my mum’s heritage before. We’re not trying to do Opheem or Gymkhana. It’s more laid-back, a little like what Aktar is doing at his new place, Oudh 1722
The scale of the kitchen speaks to the volumes Ainsworth expects the restaurant to achieve. It includes an enormous pot wash, a separate area and pass for banqueting, and an open grill with an uninterrupted view of the water.
“It must be one of the best views from any kitchen in the whole country,” he says.
Flour power
Directly below The Estuary Grill, Flour Garden is largely aimed at families, with a tight menu focused on pizzas and salads made using high-quality ingredients.
Options include a margherita made with buffalo mozzarella DOP; a salsiccia e finocchio pizza; and a salad of watermelon, goat’s cheese, prosciutto and candied walnuts.
For Ainsworth, the restaurant is not a lesser sibling to his more ambitious ventures but a demonstration of the group’s range.
“I’m proud of our Michelin star, but I’m also proud of how diverse our repertoire is down here. I’m not one of those chefs who can’t see past fine dining. For me, a carefully made burger or pizza is just as beautiful as a plate of turbot with langoustines at No.6.”
Conquering the winter
Perhaps the biggest challenge facing Ainsworth is not opening the hotel but keeping it busy once the summer crowds disappear.
Cornwall’s hospitality businesses can enjoy bumper trade during July and August, but the real test comes in the quieter months, when occupancy falls and local customers become the primary audience.
For Ainsworth, that means ensuring the St Enodoc is much more than simply somewhere to sleep.
“This only works if we can make the St Enodoc a year-round destination. But I am confident about that because The Mariners is a year-round destination. Many people in the industry told me it wouldn’t be when we took it on just before the pandemic. It’s now the busiest venue in our portfolio.”
A three-strong marketing team will be charged with giving customers a reason to return throughout the year.
“There will always be something to talk about, whether that’s yoga, special feasting dinners on the terrace where we’ll cook whole animals, or a Christmas carol service.”
Like many modern hotel operators, Ainsworth also intends to take a pragmatic (and dynamic) approach to room rates, adjusting prices according to demand rather than protecting headline figures at the expense of occupancy.
This only works if we can make the St Enodoc a year-round destination. But I am confident about that because The Mariners is a year-round destination
“If the demand is there, great. If it isn’t, we understand what it costs to service a room. So long as we’re not losing money, there’s no point having an empty bedroom, because those guests also spend money elsewhere in the building.”
Weddings and corporate events are another important pillar of the business model. The hotel has been designed with flexibility in mind, including two function spaces and a licensed ceremony room.
Even seemingly minor decisions, such as the creation of additional access points to make life easier for brides during bad weather, have been made with events in mind.
“Cornwall has plenty of beautiful locations for weddings and corporate events, but in general the quality of the hospitality is not always in step with the location. Amazing views and great food and service aren’t mutually exclusive.”
Cornwall’s time to shine
Ainsworth has watched Cornwall’s food scene transform since arriving from London more than two decades ago.
“When I arrived, there wasn’t much here apart from the Steins. Cornwall didn’t have much of a reputation for food or upscale accommodation. That has changed dramatically over the past two decades.”
The change extends far beyond restaurants. Cornwall now has a thriving ecosystem of food and drink businesses, encompassing artisan producers, cheese shops, cafés and distilleries.
I was a nobody when I came to Cornwall. The only publication that covered the fact I was down here was actually Restaurant, which picked up that I had been a sous chef for Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley
Ainsworth is particularly keen to challenge any perception of rivalry between himself and Rick and Jill Stein, whose success in Padstow did much to establish Cornwall as a serious food destination and earn the town the nickname ‘Padstein’.
“We’re big fans of Rick and Jill. They have been nothing but supportive of Emma and me.
“I was a nobody when I came to Cornwall. The only publication that covered the fact I was down here was actually Restaurant, which picked up that I had been a sous chef for Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley.”
While some might be tempted to cast Cornwall’s highest-profile operators as adversaries, Ainsworth says the reality is quite different.
“That’s not the case. Rick and Jill have been incredibly supportive. We need to make Cornwall a destination where there is loads to do. With the weather we have been having recently, the cost of air travel and all the complications overseas, this is Cornwall’s time to shine. The more there is, the better – provided everybody does a good job. You need to look at the bigger picture. I embrace it.”
A work in progress
For all the transformation downstairs, the St Enodoc project remains unfinished. The bedrooms have been refreshed rather than fully refurbished, with a complete redesign deferred until the business generates sufficient cashflow. A wellness centre featuring a gym and treatment rooms is also planned for a second phase, with work expected to begin next year.
“In all honesty, we simply can’t afford to do it yet,” admits Ainsworth with a candour that speaks to the financial reality of a project of this scale.
The total investment remains undisclosed, but it is plainly enormous. Alongside the restaurants and public spaces, the redevelopment has involved new mechanical and electrical systems, fire and security infrastructure, lifts and a vast expansion of the operational team.
If this goes wrong, I’m thinking about our two daughters and our home. But I also worry about the team
Today, The Ainsworth Collection employs 447 people. That, even more than the debt, is what weighs most heavily on Ainsworth’s mind and has galvanised him more than anything else to strive to ensure the St Enodoc’s success.
“I’m thinking about our two daughters and our home. But I also worry about the team.
“If this goes wrong, it’s not just this hotel. It takes everything else down with it. Failure isn’t an option.”