When did you first become interested in wine?
I was travelling in Australia when I was 18 and somehow blagged my way into jobs beyond my experience. I got caught up in the tastings and everyone’s enthusiasm, and made the most of the training. I’ve never looked back.
Describe the wine list at The Seaside Boarding House.
It’s concise and concentrates on Old World wines. It isn’t a bible: every bottle has been chosen with care, experience and affection for the producer.
Have you had any wine-related disasters?
I once confidently swung an old Bordeaux across a table, ready to serve it, only for the guests to ask for a different sommelier because they didn’t trust me. I hadn’t realised how carefully it needed to be handled to avoid disturbing the sediment.
Name your three favourite restaurant wine lists.
Sager + Wilde and Dorian in London, and the now-closed Bellita in Bristol. Bellita’s list featured wines made by women.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Joe Wadsack. He’s a force of nature: as fiercely knowledgeable as he is charismatic. He can spot the tiniest fault or nuance in a split second.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Ovum Big Salt 2022 from Oregon. It’s a blend led by riesling, gewürztraminer and muscat.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Crisp, dry and tannic.
What’s the best-value wine on your list at the moment?
Clos Henri pinot noir 2022 from Marlborough. It stands up against many Burgundies. It’s more savoury than juicy, which won’t be for everyone, but if that’s your kind of pinot noir, it’s a steal.
What’s your ultimate food and drink match?
Fino sherry and cured meat.
Old World or New World?
Old World, although splitting wine up that way feels a bit redundant now. There are so many approaches to winemaking within each region that the terms don’t mean quite what they used to.
What’s your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
When the service doesn’t suit the restaurant. Don’t leave a bottle on a side table if you aren’t going to top up the glasses. If you can’t offer that level of service, don’t pretend to. Stick to your identity.
Who’s your favourite producer right now?
Furleigh Estate in Dorset. They’re always trying new things, and I love that they make their wines from grapes grown on their own estate.
As a general manager, what question do customers ask you most often?
“What’s the best wine to go with my meal?” Boring but true.
Which wine region is underrated at the moment?
Burgenland in Austria. I rarely see it on restaurant lists or in small independent wine shops, and it makes some of the best reds.
It’s your last meal and you can have any bottle in the world. What do you choose?
Au Bon Climat Hildegard 2021 from California’s Santa Maria Valley. I discovered it at my favourite restaurant, The Seahorse, and have since had it at home on special occasions. The owner of the winery once visited where I was working. I’d recommended the wine to some regulars visiting California; they went to the winery, met the owner and are still in touch.