Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
It was probably the wine pairing with the tasting menu at The Square, back when Phil Howard was there. I tried wines that night that were like nothing I’d ever tasted before. The way each glass paired with the food and brought out its flavours was so exciting. When we started running supper clubs at home, which led to my sister Nikita, my mother Rima and me opening MAAI by Nikita, putting together the wine pairings was the most fun part for me.
Describe your wine list at MAAI by Nikita
I’ve tried to make our wine list both approachable and interesting by categorising the wines by body and flavour profile. Customers can then choose whether to go for something predictable or something they haven’t tried before, with the reassurance that it will suit their tastes. I’d love to think our wine list could help a non-wine expert discover a new favourite bottle.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Not so much in my career yet, although I’m sure it will come! Our biggest wine heartbreak so far was when some very good friends gifted us some very old and very expensive bottles of wine from their parents’ house. We slowly discovered that they had all been stored next to a hot AV cupboard and were undrinkable.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
I loved the black book at 10 Greek Street, which recently closed. I think it’s a fantastic way to try something special without being overwhelmed by choice.
We had a lovely lunch at Ploussard recently. They have a great selection of wines available through Coravin, which I love. It’s a great way to try a premium wine without having to commit to a whole bottle.
I haven’t been to Trivet yet, but when researching how restaurants format their wine lists, it stood out for listing wines in chronological order, based on the earliest mention of viticulture in each country. I’d love to try many of the wines on that list!
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
This may be a cliché answer, but probably Jancis Robinson. What more can be said about all the work she has done to educate and demystify the world of wine?
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I recently tasted a wine made by Valdespino with 100% Palomino grapes, which you usually only see used to make sherry. It’s called Viña Macharnudo Alto and is a still, dry wine, fermented in sherry casks but otherwise made as a traditional white wine. The result is totally unique and quite delicious.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Mineral, buttery, crisp.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
We have a wonderful 2015 Bordeaux on the list from Château Arnauld, and I think it’s a bit of a steal at £105. It’s a lovely big red, exactly what I’m starting to crave now as the evenings are cooling down, and pairs beautifully with our autumn/winter menus.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Fried chicken and Champagne.
Old World or New World?
New World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
When wine service is unapproachable. Most guests aren’t wine experts, so if you have a very long wine list, any kind of guidance is always very much appreciated – at least by me.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Marelise Niemann is a South African winemaker who makes a Grenache Noir under her Momento label that is one of my favourite wines in the world. I’m desperate to meet her! She’s worked all over the place, in California, the Rhône, Burgundy, Portugal and Priorat. Now back in South Africa, she makes wines using old vines and minimalist techniques. I’m really curious to try all of the Momento single-vineyard Grenache Noirs. There are three made in exactly the same way, so I’d love to taste the impact of the soil in each.
As a general manager, what question do you most get asked by customers?
I’m still learning what people in Clapham like to drink. We’ve only been open for a few months. Over summer, everyone wanted recommendations for a crisp white. I don’t mind that – it gives me plenty of room to suggest lots of interesting bottles! I’m looking forward to seeing the questions change as we move into autumn/winter.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment, and why?
The UK. I think English sparkling wine has become well appreciated as a category, but I’ve tasted a few amazing still wines, and I think we are going to see more and more fabulous wines coming out of the UK. On our list, we have Whitewolfe Estates’ KC2 Chardonnay, from the Kit’s Coty area of Kent’s North Downs. It’s absolutely world class.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Again, a cliché, but let’s go with the perfect-scoring Petrus 1971. I’ll probably never get to try it any other way.