Uncorked: Simon Piovesan

Simon Piovesan
Simon Piovesan worked for Aldo Zilli and A-Z Restaurants before founding 2 Veneti in 2006 (©Steven Joyce)

The founder of Marylebone stalwart 2 Veneti on Giuseppe Quintarelli, exploding double magnums of Prosecco and the wines of South Tyrol.

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine

I grew up in Asolo, in the Prosecco hills, so grapes and wine have been part of my life since childhood. I loved drinking grape must before moving on to something a little more refined. I came to London in 1997 and worked for Aldo Zilli in Soho before moving on to work for A-Z Restaurants at venues including Alloro and Spiga. I opened 2 Veneti in 2006. We recently celebrated our 20th birthday.

Describe your wine list at 2 Veneti

I offer a wide range of wines, mainly from northern Italy, including big names such as Amarone and Barolo, alongside Super Tuscans and their not-so-super counterparts. I focus on wines that are good to drink, from both well-known producers and smaller names with distinctive styles. I want people to be able to drink whatever they feel like having.

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?

Years ago, I attempted sabrage on a double magnum of Prosecco and managed to make it explode. Thank God it was at a friend’s wedding…

Name your top three restaurant wine lists

Noble Rot, Lorne and La Trompette, all in London.

Who do you most respect in the wine world?

Giuseppe Quintarelli, the king of Valpolicella. Unfortunately, he is no longer with us, but what he achieved during his career is unforgettable.

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?

I’ve fallen in love with Rubeo, produced by Luca Fedrigo, who previously worked with Giuseppe Quintarelli, at L’Arco. It’s a powerful Amarone-style wine blending Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with local varieties.

What are the three most overused tasting notes?

Acidity, complexity, cherries.

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?

Malanotte from Cantina del Pra, in the Piave River area of Treviso province. It is made mainly from Raboso, an indigenous grape, using the appassimento method. It’s big, juicy and generous, offering incredible character for £70 a bottle.

What is your ultimate food and drink match?

A bottle-aged, very mineral Sauvignon Blanc from South Tyrol or the Collio area of Friuli with top-quality aged gorgonzola.

Old World or New World?

Good wine is good wine, and I do enjoy New World wines. But given the choice, I’m firmly an Old World man.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?

Overzealous upselling. Generally, the more you spend, the better the wine, but some sommeliers need to understand their guests - and their budgets - better.

As founder of 2 Veneti, what question do you most get asked by customers?

“Why did you leave that beautiful part of Italy to come to London?” I’m half English: I was born in Windsor and moved to Italy two weeks later. I’ve always loved England, and I believe I was something of a pioneer in bringing authentic regional Italian food to London.

Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment, and why?

South Tyrol is white wine heaven. The quality is exceptional, the growing conditions are challenging and distinctive, and the wines offer remarkable value given the effort that goes into making them.

It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?

I’m a big supporter of Italian wine, but a 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault is still the best bottle I’ve ever drunk. Why not have another if it’s my last? Perhaps with buttery grilled Scottish lobster and proper French fries. That’s just the starter. For the main course, a top-quality T-bone steak with a Quintarelli Amarone, preferably the 2004.