Claudio Obertelli has returned to restaurant ownership with the opening of Torino, his latest venture in partnership with friend Peter Fulton. Spanning 5,000sq ft across three floors, the new concept has opened at 1A Paddington Square, marking Obertelli’s return to the industry after a period working in hospitality consultancy.
Obertelli first entered the restaurant business at 21 and went on to build a portfolio of 11 venues across London and New York. His previous ventures included Kensington institution Sticky Fingers, which he created with Rolling Stones bassist Bill Wyman, and Ménage à Trois, which had sites in Knightsbridge and New York. After selling his restaurant group, Obertelli turned to consultancy, advising hospitality businesses on international expansion.
Torino brings together a ground floor bakery, first floor restaurant and rooftop bar. The food takes inspiration from Italy and the wider Mediterranean, with an emphasis on quality ingredients. Torino Bakery serves coffee, pastries, breakfast, brunch, freshly made bread, sandwiches and salads, while its evening offering includes small plates and drinks. Upstairs, Torino Restaurant focuses on a grill-led menu of Italian and Mediterranean dishes, with Torino Rooftop completing the three-floor operation.
How did you get started in the hospitality industry?
I started working for my father when I was 14, washing plates, and continued doing so for six years while also working in coffee shops. Eventually, I asked him to loan me the money to open my own restaurant, which I went on to do in Leadenhall Market when I was 21.
Across your portfolio, which venues have stood out the most?
The very first one, because it was really close to my heart, was Hamilton’s Restaurant. Another one I really loved working in was in Chelsea, on Fulham Road, called San Frediano. It was the clientele. Everyone used to come to San Frediano. We had regulars every weekend, and it felt like a really lovely, warm family restaurant.
You ran two high-profile restaurants, Sticky Fingers and Ménage à Trois. What do you think was behind their success?
With Sticky Fingers, the food was great, but a big part of its success was that it was created in partnership with the Rolling Stones bassist Bill Wyman, so the media attention and public interest were huge. Ménage à Trois was really aimed at ladies who wanted to dine out but didn’t necessarily want to drink alcohol. The menu was mainly starters and desserts, alongside water. It was quite different.
Why have you decided to return to the restaurant world now?
After selling my business 10 years ago, I moved into consultancy, working with various companies, including one in Torino, Italy – where I got the name. I hadn’t planned to open another restaurant and was happy returning to Italy. However, when this building came along, I saw an opportunity to realise a long-held ambition: bringing three venues under one roof, with a bakery and breakfast offer, an Italian restaurant and a rooftop bar. The concept complemented itself and offered a seven-day-a-week business, which ultimately drew me back.
How have changes in the restaurant industry influenced your approach to opening a business today?
Things have changed enormously in the last 10 years. Success is no longer just about good food; pricing is a huge factor. I wanted to offer something more affordable to attract greater volume - our house wine, for example, is £28 a bottle, and we have classic, recognisable dishes that offer something for everyone. You can enjoy pasta and a glass of red wine without spending £150. Equally, the staff and their uniforms and social media are incredibly important. I’ve had to learn and adapt quickly to keep up with what it takes to run a successful restaurant.
Tell us about the menu at Torino.
We offer a varied menu, with plenty of seafood, including sea bass and our best-selling grilled octopus. Other highlights include vitello saltimbocca – which is veal and Parma ham fried with Marsala wine; a sharing T-bone steak; and a selection of pasta dishes. We’re also happy to accommodate special requests, preparing dishes that may not be listed on the menu, such as pasta dishes.
What are the biggest challenges facing restaurant operators today?
Finding staff is very difficult. It almost feels like a dying trade, and perhaps Brexit has had a lot to do with it. That said, we have 49 members of staff, and I can already see some of them becoming the next generation of restaurateurs in 10 or 15 years. You can see their passion and enthusiasm.
What advice would you give to someone looking to open their first restaurant today?
Keep a very close eye on costs, as they can quickly spiral, and unexpected expenses always arise. I learned that lesson when I opened a restaurant in Spitalfields Market for just £48,000, which went on to serve 600 covers a day. After the landlord invited me to stay and build a flagship restaurant, I invested almost £1 million in the new site, but it was never as busy as the original. It taught me that spending more doesn’t guarantee success. Ultimately, people come for good food, so that’s where your focus should be.
What lessons have you learned throughout your career?
That listening to my staff is key. I’m always learning and adapting, particularly to the expectations of younger generations. I encourage their ideas, whether they’re new dishes or different ways of doing things.
Where do you think some restaurants could improve their approach?
Staffing is a big issue, and having a hands-on approach is essential. Staff play a huge role in keeping customers happy, making them feel welcome and creating a personal experience. Pricing is equally important. You can’t simply invest three or four million pounds in opening a restaurant and expect customers to walk through the door. There’s much more to running a successful restaurant than that.
How do you balance keeping prices affordable while maintaining quality?
Having strong supplier relationships in Italy certainly helps. I import much of our produce directly, including Parma ham and extra virgin olive oil. It’s about buying in bulk where possible, without overordering, so we can maintain freshness, quality and value for money.
What are the advantages of having a three-in-one model?
It offers something for everyone. We can cater to different tastes, occasions and budgets, from someone popping in for a quick bite and a glass of wine to those wanting to spend the afternoon on the rooftop enjoying a bottle of prosecco in the sun. It allows us to cover all bases, appeal to a much broader customer base and ultimately attract greater footfall.
Do you think it’s important to have an all-day offer? Is that something you see growing in London?
Yes, I think it’s very important because people eat at different times of the day now. We’re also paying rent 24/7, so we need to have the place filled as much as possible throughout the day.
Where do you see hospitality heading, and what would help restaurants thrive?
Greater support from the government, particularly through a reduction in VAT, would make a real difference and give restaurants more room to grow. We’ve also seen a shift in customer spending habits. Christmas is a good example: when I first started, bookings for Christmas parties would begin as early as October. Now, you’re lucky to fill the last week of December.
Do you see yourself opening more sites under the Torino brand?
I’m really excited about this project, and the feedback so far has been fantastic. I’d love to expand, although finding another three-storey site like this could be difficult, so we’re also considering smaller concepts, such as a Café Torino, combining a café and rooftop bar, or a standalone Torino restaurant.
Would you consider other concepts?
For now, my focus is on Torino rather than exploring other concepts. If expansion doesn’t happen, I’m very happy to concentrate on this site, spending three or four months in Italy before returning to the UK for the same period.