Flash-grilled: Jad Youssef

Before launching Lebnani in Reigate, Jad Youssef founded Yalla Yalla. He is no longer involved with the brand, which is now part of Comptoir Libanais
Before launching Lebnani in Reigate, Jad Youssef founded Yalla Yalla. He is no longer involved with the brand, which is now part of Comptoir Libanais (©Lebnani)

The chef-patron of Reigate restaurant Lebnani on hummus, gold leaf and wet chopping boards.

What was your first industry job?

I started out grilling corn at my uncle’s little place in Lebanon when I was a kid. I took it very seriously, flipping every cob like I was the boss. Didn’t know it at the time, but I was already learning how to get a proper char on things.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

Probably be a farmer. Olives, za’atar, tomatoes, whatever I could grow. I like the idea of working the land and growing your own food. It’s a bit like cooking, just a lot slower.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

Anyone still smiling at the end of a double shift. It’s not about being famous. It’s the people grafting away in the kitchen, cooking with heart and getting the job done.

Pet hate in the kitchen?

Wet chopping boards. Might as well prep on a slip ’n’ slide. And people who go ‘yeah, yeah, yeah’ when you ask them to do something, then it’s either half done or not done at all. That does my head in.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?

Someone once asked if we could make our toum without garlic. Still trying to work that one out. And another guy asked if our chicken had been emotionally treated well. I told him, ‘Mate, it’s marinated in love.’

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…

Honest Lebanese food, cooked over fire, full of flavour and always bringing me back home.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?

Someone said our food had ‘too much flavour’. Honestly, I took that as a compliment.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

Get your head down, learn as much as you can and always clean as you go. You’ll pick up the skills along the way, but having the right attitude makes all the difference.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

Charcoal grill. Everything tastes better with a bit of smoke and flame.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

I’d have lamb sfiha from Baalbek in Lebanon with pomegranate molasses and fresh goat yoghurt from the farm, all baked in a traditional stone oven.

À la carte or tasting menu?

À la carte. People can order what they fancy, and no one leaves hungry or bored.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

The best meal I’ve ever had was the roast goose at Kim’s Roast Goose in Hong Kong. Crispy skin, juicy meat, no fuss, just proper flavour. It’s a tiny local spot, packed with regulars, and every bite was unforgettable.

Favourite fast-food joint?

Any Lebanese bakery with hot mana’eesh straight from the saj. Pure comfort.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?

Definitely hummus. It’s so simple, but you can do so much with it. Imagine coming up with that combination of chickpeas, tahini, lemon and garlic. Genius, really.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

I’d take a smoky barbecue in the garden over either, to be honest. But probably Great British Menu for the stories.

Most overrated food?

Anything covered in gold leaf. If you can’t taste it, what’s the point?

Restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?

Fake smoke and foam for the sake of it. Keep it real, people. Let the food do the talking.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

My dream dinner guest would be my dad. We never got the chance to go out, just the two of us. Life got busy, and I was living abroad when he passed. I’d give anything for one proper meal together, no rush, just good food and a long chat.

What’s your earliest food memory?

Dipping fresh bread into the first press of olive oil, straight from our family grove. Still unbeatable.

TikTok or Instagram?

Instagram. I like pictures that make you hungry, not videos that make you dizzy.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?

I was working in a restaurant in Mayfair, baking fatayer in the oven. Just as I went to open the door, BOOM! The oven exploded. Ended up in A&E, looking a bit worse for wear, but the fatayer were absolutely fine. Typical, isn’t it?

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

When I want to let my hair down (what’s left of it), I head out to the countryside. Usually a long walk, some fresh air, maybe a confused sheep, or just jumping in the car with a good playlist and seeing where I end up. Nice to switch off for a bit and not have anyone asking me what’s for dinner.

Tipple of choice?

Arak. Cold, cloudy and always a good idea.

Favourite food and drink pairing (the more obscure, the better)?

Smoked aubergine and a cold rosé. Sounds a bit odd, but trust me, it works.

What do you consider your signature dish?

Moloukhia, a rich chicken broth with garlic, Jew’s mallow leaves, vermicelli basmati rice and a good squeeze of lemon. It’s proper comfort food and a taste of home for me.