Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine.
I was always interested in wine, so there was never a defining moment. My college tutor, Graeme Headly, encouraged that interest from the start. Vanessa Soltz was one of the first sommeliers I worked with, and her passion for wine was infectious. I found her knowledge inspiring, too.
Describe your wine list at Henrock.
We focus on small, independent, biodynamic and organic growers, but most importantly on wines with character.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Some lovely regulars spotted a 2011 Pétrus on the list and ordered it without checking the price. It was a recent addition and would have been our first sale, so I went over to share in the excitement and tell them a bit about the wine. They asked about the price just as we were about to open it and, much to everyone’s embarrassment, cancelled the order. For years afterwards, we’d still laugh about the near miss whenever they came in.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists (excluding your own!).
L’Enclume, Mountain and Glenturret are my top three. Having access to L’Enclume’s wine list and cellar is a fantastic way to discover wines and get ideas for our own list.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
I have enormous respect for the smaller, independent producers. They’re the ones putting the most passion, patience and sheer physical labour into their wines, with very little recognition in return.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
The blanc de noir from Château Changyu Moser XV in Ningxia. It’s a really fun producer in China’s Helan Mountains. Changyu is China’s oldest wine producer, and its chief winemaker, Lenz Moser, is from Austria. A gentle pressing gives the wine a pink hue, and it’s full of flavour, with exotic fruit and violet notes.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Green apple, flint and forest floor.
What’s the best-value wine on your list at the moment?
Davenport’s Horsmonden Dry Bacchus is great and shows the quality of English winemaking. You could easily mistake it for a French sauvignon blanc, but with a little more character, vibrancy and fun.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Cote Hill Blue cheese and Delamotte rosé.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Inconsistent serving temperatures and wine glasses with dirty stems or bases.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Josmeyer. Their wines are so much fun, and each has its own personality.
As a restaurant manager, what question do you get asked most often by customers?
It’s probably ‘Do you get to try the wines?’ Of course we do! It’s one of the perks of the job.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Lebanon has a long winemaking history and is famous for Château Musar’s reds, which tend to overshadow other producers. Château Ksara and Château Marsyas make fantastic wines. A lot of our guests are surprised to see Lebanese wines on the list, but they always go down well.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Tough choice… probably the 2004 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanco, with a very good charcuterie board and seafood tapas.