Uncorked: Charlie Stein
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine...
There wasn’t one single moment, I grew up in a family that was obsessed with food and wine, my parents would have parties with wine merchants, chefs, and winemakers over from Australia. Everyone looked like they were having such a wonderful time. I wanted a bit of that.
Tell us about your wine list at Rick Stein Restaurants
Being a seafood restaurant, our lists are skewed towards whites and lighter reds. Our style of food is very uncomplicated, fresh fish and seafood simply cooked so our wine list covers all classic regions with a sprinkle of wines that are a little more off the beaten track. I am also fanatical about modern South African wine, so I shoehorn as many in as I can.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Technically this happened to my brother Jack, but it was on my instruction. We were having Christmas dinner at my old man’s, we’d reached the point where we needed something ‘serious’, so my brother got a bottle of Penfold’s Grange out of dad’s garage, it was fridge cold so I suggested that Jack put it in the oven for a minute with the residual heat it should warm up. We obviously immediately forgot it was in there, and the oven had been on full blast and the wine was soup.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Andrew Edmunds, insane cellar at silly prices. Noble Rot for the depth and length of the wine list and it is just such a lovely place to spend time. There’s a restaurant near Chablis which has the world’s best wines and amazing prices. It is a ‘If you know, you know’ type of place.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Angelo Gaja (from Piedmont), I had the pleasure of meeting him once, he’s quite a formidable person and when he talks, you listen. Oh, and don’t ask him too many questions.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve ever come across?
The near mythical wine GS Cabernet 1966 from South Africa. The story behind it is amazing and one I’m not going to butcher here. Jancis (Robinson) has a great article on it which is worth reading.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Mineral, clean and fresh.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment (and why)…
Chris Alheit’s Fire by Night. Chris (who is based in South Africa) is one of the best white winemakers in the world. In 10 years I’ll look back and think was that on the list for THAT price.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Jamon and fino sherry.
Old World or New World?
Old world. I count South Africa as old world as they have been making wine there for hundreds of years.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Warm red wine.
Who is your favourite producer at the moment and why?
Kumeu River. A producer from New Zealand that makes unbelievable Chardonnay. Premier Cru Burgundy in every way, other than the price. Such excellent value.
As head of wine, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Do you have a Pinot Grigio?
Which wine producing region or country is currently underrated at the moment and why?
South Africa. It’s getting much more recognition recently but I think it has got a lot more to show, especially with wines on the secondary market.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Something very alcoholic. Maybe an old rare Niepoort Port. If it’s the end, I’d like to be drunk.
