The top line: Chef Mike Bagnall, co-owner of pop-up kitchen Elm, and GM Dylan Walters, the former restaurant manager at East London’s Bambi, have brought the pastoral cooking of central Italy to London with their new venture that is located within the former Papi site. They are joined by Scout O’Donoghue, formerly of Bar Bruno, who leads front-of-house and assistant general manager Laurie Bertram who is previously of Jolene. The 31-cover neighbourhood restaurant is described as being ‘built around charcoal, skewers and imperfect wine, designed for lively spirits, eating well and staying a little longer than planned’.
On the menu: Auguste’s menu centres on arrosticini, flame-grilled skewers from the Abruzzo region of Italy that are designed to be eaten in quick succession, often standing at a counter. In this case, skewers of lamb, cull yaw, wagyu, liver and a wild boar and chilli sausage (priced between £5 and £10 for three) come served alongside a tight selection of dishes such as La Latteria stracciatella with ibérico tomato; crushed smoked potato with hikari miso; buttermilk and dandelion salad; and Lyonnais and crème fraîche capoletti in lamb brodo, with larger plates such as whole grilled fish also available. Desserts include a mascarpone, spiced rum and coffee caramel tart; and hazelnut semifreddo with pizelle and gianduja. The wine list is overseen by O’Donoghue and focuses on low-intervention bottles from small producers, with a particular emphasis on Italian and Abruzzese varieties including Montepulciano, Trebbiano and Pecorino. Five wines are served by the glass, including a weekly magnum (£9-16 per glass), spanning sparkling, white, red, chilled red and skin-contact bottles but for something a bit more interesting there’s also a small ‘scratch list’ of bottles from a select few importers. The cocktail list leans towards the classics, with Negronis and Martinis available for just £8 on Wednesdays and a selection of digestifs and amari are also served, with top choice being Auguste’s house made limoncello.
The vibe: Auguste takes its design inspiration from bistros and bars of Paris, Barcelona and Madrid, with simplicity at its heart. The spot is vibey with a small standing counter for walk-ins and a white-tiled open kitchen to the rear of the room but also cosy, with white tablecloths and candles and lots of colourful abstract artwork. Later this month a downstairs speakeasy bar is opening that will also host private events.
And another thing: Auguste aptly opened on 1 April and has comic undertones. It is named after the melancholic figure in Edward Hopper’s painting Soir Bleu where Auguste the clown represents a counterpart to refinement and traditional hierarchy, belonging to the crowd rather than standing above it.
73 Mentmore Terrace, London Fields, E8 3DQ