Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
While working in a junior role at Noble Rot under the encouraging and inspiring leadership of Oli McSwiney, who allowed me to observe and learn about the world of wine from a very early point in my career. I remember reading the list for the first time and being bamboozled by terminology and regions I never knew existed.
Describe your wine list at ROAM
Our wine list at ROAM focuses on the ever-developing English wines of pioneering winery Sandridge Barton, with whom we share our site and who celebrate 45 years of winemaking this year. With varieties ranging from Madeleine Angevine, inspired by the Loire, through to true South West Pinot Noir, the Sandridge team have given us a superb list to play with. We are also continuously developing our international wine offering as an alternative for customers, boasting Mediterranean, experimental and New World wines such as Radikon IGT Venezia Giulia Sivi, giving our local Devon guests access to often difficult-to-obtain cuvées.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I’ve been lucky enough never to have had a wine-related disaster myself. However, I’ve spent a great deal of time witnessing the distress and disappointment of restaurant and members’ club guests eagerly awaiting the verdict on a sub-1975 Château Lafite Rothschild, only to find a soupy, mousey and undrinkable mess.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Andrew Edmunds, Soho - an approachable, affordable and undeniably classic list deserving of the top spot. Planque, Haggerston — a bible of exquisite pours, particularly those from Jonathan’s private stash. Noble Rot, Lamb’s Conduit Street - a varietal range like no other.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
I have a huge amount of respect for those I’ve been lucky enough to work with over the years, namely Charlie Brown and Duncan Schwab of Sandridge Barton; Jonathan, James and Maxime of Planque; Charlie Blightman of Keeling Andrew; and Lorenzo Franzoia of Sager + Wilde. I also greatly admire Elliott Kaye, former co-owner of Norman’s Café, who allowed me to develop a further understanding of listings and the wine trade during our time working together.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I’m guilty of my obsessive Jura admiration of Ganevat, Labet, Rousset-Martin and the like, but the most interesting wine I’ve come across recently was Château Trotte Vieille Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 1988. I found this one-off tipple on the unsuspecting yet superb wine list at The Church House Inn, Harberton, here in Devon. It’s not often you find a drinkable Bordeaux Saint-Émilion from 1988 in a 14th-century pub nestled away in the South Devon parishes. Chef-owner Tim Blanchard is the person to thank for this masterpiece.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Oxy, dutty and drinkable.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
The best value wine on our list at the moment has to be Sandridge Barton’s New Release 2025. Having been the first UK producer to release a nouveau wine back in 1995, the Sharpham/Sandridge Barton team are no strangers to producing superb harvest wines 30 years later. This Madeleine Angevine/Bacchus blend went from vine to bottle in a mere six weeks and, at £30 a bottle on the restaurant list, it’s an absolute steal.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
A glass of Tetramythos Retsina with a clump of honey-covered Greek feta.
Old World or New World?
Old World forever.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Overchilled whites.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
My favourite producer right now is François Rousset-Martin. I greatly admire his ability to produce quality wine from his 300-year-old Jura cellar, from staple Chardonnays to Fleurie-sourced Gamay.
As a GM and sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“What’s the closest thing to Chin Chin?”
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
I think the most underrated region at the moment is Valais, Switzerland, with a wealth of incredibly talented winemakers situated delicately along the extension of the Rhône Valley.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
2004 Jean-François Ganevat Les Vignes de Mon Père. What a way to go out!