The top line: MAAI by Nikita Pathakji is a family-run restaurant in Clapham, involving the titular chef’s mother Rima (financial and operations director) and sister Isha (general manager). The concept builds directly on Pathakji’s supper club, which she has run out of her family home for the past few years, with her mother hosting and her sister creating bespoke cocktail pairings for each course. Originally from Derby, she has worked at some of London’s top restaurants, including Bibendum under Claude Bosi and Core by Clare Smyth.
The menu: The menu leads with smaller plates, including a chaat tartlet; sea bream with kalamansi ponzu; and octopus ‘takoyaki’ doughnut – a signature dish the chef showcased during her time on MasterChef: The Professionals and later at her supper clubs. Larger plates include BBQ paneer with palak purée, pickled red onions and corn sev; seared halibut with Malaysian fish head curry - the Champion of Champions-winning dish on Great British Menu - and spring lamb rump with pea and coconut and dill yoghurt. Desserts include strawberry and buttermilk choux; banana pudding; and various ice creams; alongside a selection of British cheeses. Guests can also choose a £85 tasting menu, featuring dishes such as asparagus gomae with scorched mackerel, soy egg, pea and wasabi, with a vegetarian alternative offered alongside. A shorter set menu is also available at £32 for two courses or £36 for three, featuring dishes such as mango chaat with tamarind, date and green chutney, followed by a choice of Sai Oua faggots or BBQ paneer with chaat masala new potatoes. The cocktail programme draws on Isha’s background in chemical engineering. The menu includes drinks such as the MAAI Colada, Buttered Popcorn Old Fashioned and Salted Melon Daiquiri.
The vibe: MAAI uses deep greens and warm earth tones alongside walnut furniture and neutral linens, with subtle references to Indian design throughout. The space is designed to balance comfort with a sense of occasion and works for both long lunches and evening meals.
And another thing: Having won MasterChef: The Professionals in 2022, Pathakji became the first female chef in a decade to win the BBC cooking competition.