The top line: Nick Molyviatis has finally launched a Greek restaurant of his own. Located on Bedford Street, Zylia forms part of Arcade but has its own street entrance (guests who don’t venture to the toilets, which are within the wider venue, will be none the wiser). The menu and overall feel draw on Molyviatis’ upbringing in Athens and business partner Barry Karacostas’ Cypriot heritage. Molyviatis is best known for his modern Thai cooking, having previously been head chef at Soho’s Kiln before becoming chef and co-owner of the recently lauched Singburi in Shoreditch. However, this isn’t his first foray into Greek restaurants in London, with Molyviatis having helped launch David Carter’s OMA and AGORA before exiting stage left shortly after the two Borough Market restaurants opened.
The menu: The concise menu will be instantly recognisable to anyone who has eaten at a Greek taverna. It begins with handmade pitta and a selection of hot and cold mezze, including melitzanosalata – roasted aubergine with herbs, roasted peppers and two vinegars; tyrokafteri – smashed feta with roasted green chilli and yoghurt; spanakopita – spinach, herbs and feta wrapped in filo pastry; and grilled prawn saganaki with spiced tomato sauce. At the heart of the menu is a traditional charcoal grill serving dishes such as sheftalia – grilled pork parcels with oregano and lemon; pork and chicken souvlaki; and vazania – grilled aubergine with spiced tomato sauce and anari cheese. Larger dishes include whole grilled fish, lamb kleftiko – slow-roasted lamb with wine, garlic and bay – and Greek-style lamb chops served with very good olive oil chips. Desserts include karidopita, a traditional Greek walnut cake; galaktoboureko – baked semolina custard in filo pastry; and kaimaki ice cream with sour cherry preserve. Prices are accessible for a high-profile central London restaurant, with a clear aim of turning tables quickly and driving volume - a strategy that seems to be paying off.
The vibe: The dining room has a well-judged, lived-in feel, blending rustic natural materials such as wicker chairs and traditional Cypriot tiles with contemporary touches including stainless steel tables and counters, and green leather banquettes.
And another thing: London hasn’t been short of high-profile Greek restaurant openings recently, with Maza, Fenix and Ermou all launching in the past few months. While Maza offers a polished, Mayfair take on the modern taverna, Zylia feels more rooted in the everyday cooking of Greece and Cyprus and has already chalked up glowing reviews from The Guardian and The Standard.
6 Bedford Street, London WC2E 9HZ