What: A new restaurant offering a creative take on the cooking of Appalachia, a vast and diverse region that stretches from New York to northern Mississippi. Appalachia has taken over the former Counter 71 site and is run by much of the same team, with the notable exception of former Counter 71 head chef Joe Laker, who has moved on from the Shoreditch restaurant. Ownership also remains unchanged, with Camilla Meshiea and Ryan Sheenan continuing to oversee both the restaurant and the subterranean bar Lowcountry, which is inspired by the coastal American South. Taking over the kitchen is Alistair Borer (better known as Ali), the original head chef at smash hit Thai restaurant Smoking Goat, who later led the kitchen at The Light Bar in Shoreditch.
The menu: Borer is applying his expertise in live-fire cooking to dishes inspired by this corner of the US, which he describes as being shaped by migration, resilience and adaptation. Dishes include smoked eel and jalapeño devilled eggs; rock oysters with tomatillo and Scotch bonnet; BBQ whole quail with blue cheese slaw; grilled poussin with grits; and country-fried rabbit with chorizo gravy. Harry Copper continues to oversee the wine list, which changes frequently and focuses on small-allocation bottles alongside an extensive by-the-glass selection. The bar is led by Fraser Stancombe, formerly of Three Sheets Soho, who has created a drinks menu designed to ‘complement Appalachia’s regional narrative’. Cocktails include the Kentucky 75, a twist on the French 75 and the Mint Julep, made with mint-washed bourbon, absinthe, citrus oils, wine and peppermint oil.
The vibe: The intimate space has been refreshed while retaining its counter-dining format. Design features include an earthy green colour palette, a marble countertop, Japanese tile footrests, bouclé upholstery, concrete floors and white half-length curtains.
And another thing: Ask nicely and Borer might make you one of his off-menu burgers.
71 Nile Street, London N1 7RD