Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I’m French, so wine was always part of the culture, but it was my move to Sydney in 2009 that really broadened my horizons. Through sommelier and importer friends I discovered so many regions and winemakers. I tasted far more widely and my perspective has expanded ever since.
Describe your wine list at Planque
It’s based on my own cellar, so we champion the best of what each region has to offer. It’s French-centric, again because my cellar is predominantly French. We like to showcase both the iconic winemakers and the new generation that followed them, who are making some incredibly interesting wines. We also have a strong focus on grower Champagne. Everything is well made. I don’t like the word “natural” because our list is so much more than that, but it definitely leans towards wines made with fewer pesticides and less intervention. Some of our favourites are Selosse, Ganevat, Richard Leroy, Tino Kuban, Thierry Allemand and Domaine Gramenon.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I don’t work the floor, so I don’t really have horror stories like that. But I have broken bottles before, or completely destroyed older ones – most sadly a bottle of 1966 Chave – while opening them, thinking I could do it with a regular corkscrew.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
In London I love the lists at all three Noble Rot restaurants. There is always something fun to try, whether new or old. In Meursault I love Le Soufflot, which offers some of the best-priced iconic Burgundies you will ever find. Then in Paris I always enjoy browsing the list at Parcelles.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Anyone who goes for it and opens their dream place, whether it’s the smallest wine bar or the most ambitious restaurant. This industry is brutal, and anyone with the conviction to turn their passion into a business is up there in my book.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I am obsessed with Johannes Aufricht’s interpretation of the obscure Completer grape. He is based in Germany and is definitely a name to follow.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
I hate tasting notes, but my biggest pet peeve is non-professionals scoring wines. I suppose anything that’s overly descriptive of the flavour profile, because tasting is so personal. There is no universal taste.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
It might just be Thibault Tassin’s 2022 Champagne. It’s a delicious bottle from an up-and-coming winemaker in the Aube that every Champagne lover should try before it becomes impossible to find.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
It may be the most classic pairing, but vin jaune and Comté are hard to beat.
Old World or New World?
Old World, always. I’m not that interested in listing wines produced thousands of kilometres away from here.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Worse than bad glassware is bad temperature. A red that’s too warm completely kills the vibe.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Probably Tino Kuban in Burgundy, because he is pushing the envelope in a region that is in desperate need of a reshuffle, so people stop buying appellations over quality. He embodies that for me.
As the founder of Planque, what question do you most get asked by customers?
People love to know which domaines are the next exciting ones to look out for. It’s a question that comes up often, and a fun one to answer.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Germany has so many great wines and a new generation of growers who have travelled, tasted widely and been exposed to many different styles. There are lots of delicious pinots being made there that could give many French wines a run for their money in a blind tasting.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Domaine d’Auvenay Chevalier-Montrachet, because it’s the most complex and kaleidoscopic wine I have ever been lucky enough to taste. It does something to your tongue and palate that no other wine can. It has energy, depth – everything.