Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine.
Ironically, I first became interested in wine because I wanted to avoid being a waiter. During a placement at Hôtel de Meurice in Paris, the head sommelier noticed how eager I was to learn and invited me to work with him instead.
Describe your wine list at WILD.
We started with around 100 wines and have already grown to around 150 references. The list balances classics with more curious discoveries, ranging from accessible bottles through to rare fine wines. We focus on food pairings, value and working closely with producers wherever possible.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
At Le Gavroche, I once slipped while rushing to collect a second bottle for a guest, smashing the wine, tearing my trousers and cutting my hands before returning to finish the wine service and only then getting changed. The show must go on.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists.
Noble Rot for its personality and depth, Caractère for its elegance and classic service, and Dorian for its brilliant pricing, atmosphere and sommelier team.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Gérard Basset. He was one of the greatest figures in wine, but also incredibly humble and generous. Isa Bal also had a huge influence on me professionally, especially when it came to competitions and technical training.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
A Sémillon from Wildeberg in Franschhoek made from vines planted in 1905. Tiny production, beautifully elegant and incredibly complex.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
“Minerality”, “bouquet” and “the wine is open”. They’re often used without really explaining what the wine actually smells or tastes like.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
A Merlot-led red with a touch of Mourvèdre from Boutinot: Vin de Pays d’Oc Les Oliviers. It massively overdelivers for the price and has real character and freshness.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
At WILD right now, it’s our milk and honey dessert paired with a 2014 Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos from Disznókő. The honey, saffron and spice notes in the wine work beautifully with the richness and sweetness of the dish.
Old World or New World?
Both. Traditionally, Old World wines work brilliantly with food because of their acidity and structure, but great wine can come from anywhere. I care more about quality than geography.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Handling older bottles badly before service - shaking them or disturbing the sediment. Also, listing one vintage and then serving another without mentioning it.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Henschke. Incredible wines, from Riesling to Shiraz, but also a genuinely lovely family behind the winery.
As head sommelier, what question do you get asked most by customers?
“What’s your favourite wine?” It’s impossible to answer because it changes constantly depending on the food, mood, company and occasion.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Alsace for its consistency, versatility and value, and Hungary for its incredible food-friendly wines beyond just Tokaji.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Probably a mature bottle of Screaming Eagle - partly because I’ve never had the chance to try it, and curiosity is a big part of being a sommelier.