The top line: Story chef Tom Sellers has taken over the space previously home to Adam Handling’s Ugly Butterfly at Carbis Bay Estate near St Ives in Cornwall. MOR is a relaxed but meticulously executed seafood restaurant with a menu that combines punchy small plates with exacting whole-fish cookery. The project’s far-flung location has proved no barrier to attracting talent. The kitchen is headed up by former Gwen and Ynyshir head chef Corrin Harrison, supported by Sellers’ right-hand man Tom Anglesey and the recently appointed Elwyn Boyles, the former executive pastry chef for Thomas Keller, who worked across The French Laundry and Per Se. Front of house is led by Katie Russell (Evelyn’s Table, Elystan Street), who is being temporarily supported by Darren McHugh, head of operations for Sellers’ HiStory Hospitality and formerly of The Ledbury.
On the menu: The cooking is eclectic, with some well-judged Asian influences. Smaller dishes are split into cold and hot, with options including Cornish bluefin tuna otoro on toast with grilled peaches, PX vinegar and jalapeño; spatchcock BBQ quail with salted chilli and lime; and smoked Mora Farm tomatoes with chilled dashi. Larger dishes change according to what is available and are often charged by weight, with options on our visit including ikejime sea bass, Cornish bluefin tuna loin and mackerel. Fish is served with garden salad and potatoes alongside half a dozen condiments presented in yakumi pans, including seaweed béarnaise, chopped red chillies and a secret-recipe hot sauce. Desserts are first rate, with options including toasted rice soft serve with wasabi and puffed rice; blackcurrant sorbet with sake; and a kaffir lime, Medjool date and custard tart that pays tribute to Australian chef and restaurateur Neil Perry. Prices are fair given the location, quality of the produce and calibre of the team, with small plates typically costing between £15 and £20.
The vibe: Designed by Shayne Brady, MOR takes inspiration from Japanese Shintoism and Cornish Celtic mysticism (whatever that is), with natural stone, timber and sheer fabrics used alongside floor-to-ceiling windows to connect the restaurant with its dramatic coastal setting. The dining room features warm yellow ombré tones inspired by sand, sunlight and Cornwall’s changing skies, while the adjoining cocktail bar has a darker red palette. The result is stunning: MOR is undoubtedly one of the prettiest restaurants in the UK.
And another thing: MOR is not to be confused with Môr, another seaside fine-dining restaurant on Mumbles Beach near Swansea.
Carbis Bay Estate, Carbis Bay, St Ives, Cornwall, TR26 2NP