Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine.
I arrived in London in the early 90s to join Chutney Mary, which had opened in Chelsea in 1990. At the time, lager was still the go-to drink with Indian cuisine, but not at Chutney Mary. I discovered a range of wines specially chosen to accompany the bold and complex flavours of Indian food. This was my first real exposure to wine pairing with Indian cuisine. I recall Matthew Jukes, who was engaged in 2002 to write the wine list for Chutney Mary, pouring me a mature Riesling, and I realised that a glass of wine could tell you where and when it was made.
Describe the wine list at Chutney Mary.
The wine list starts with the food, and increasingly it is the Pukka Bar that provides the most informal gateway into that thinking. The list is designed around the complexity of Indian cuisine, where spice, heat, sweetness and smoke call for wines with aromatics, freshness and soft tannins. Alongside familiar classics are off-dry and aromatic whites, fruit-driven reds and plenty of sparkling wines, as well as a more adventurous selection of lesser-known wines from India, Georgia, Greece, Cyprus and Lebanon.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
There’s been the odd occasion when a customer, having drunk a quarter of a bottle of a very expensive first growth, returned it on the grounds that they ‘didn’t really like it’, and then refused to pay. Hospitality overrode the commercial considerations and we didn’t charge them.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists (excluding your own!).
Noble Rot for its personality and old bottles at fair prices; 67 Pall Mall for its huge by-the-glass offering; and Cambio de Tercio for its sheer range of Riojas.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
The late Matthew Jukes. He had huge knowledge and no ego at all. He showed that a sommelier’s job is to serve the guests, not to impress them.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
A Georgian amber Rkatsiteli made in qvevri clay vessels. It has the texture and grip of a red with the aromatics of a white. I am hoping to introduce it to the list soon as it will pair remarkably well with tandoori dishes and anything else that is smoky.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
‘Minerality’, which means everything and nothing. ‘Long finish’, which should be the norm, not the selling point. And, for my own trade, ‘pairs well with spicy food’. Which spice? How much heat? What’s the fat, the acid, the sweetness? That’s where the conversation should start.
What’s the best-value wine on your list at the moment, and why?
G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba. It has bright acidity, soft tannins and lovely cherry fruit, so it stands up to lamb and spice without clashing with the heat. It gives you Piedmont pedigree for a fraction of the price of Barolo.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Pork vindaloo with a Douro red, which reflects the Portuguese history of Goa.
Old World or New World?
Old World for complexity, New World for generosity. With Indian food, the question that matters most is whether the wine has freshness and fruit, not where it comes from.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Topping up glasses constantly to speed up the ordering of the next bottle. Close behind is the bottle being taken away where the guest can’t see or reach it. Good service reads the table. It doesn’t push sales.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Eva Fricke. Her Rieslings are consistent, honest and precise.
As a director of operations, what question do customers most often ask you about wine?
‘Does wine really work with Indian food?’ My answer is always yes, as long as you choose for the spice and the sauce, not just the protein.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Greece. Assyrtiko from Santorini has salinity and acidity that cut straight through rich, creamy dishes, and Xinomavro is a real alternative to Nebbiolo. The quality has gone up a lot and the prices are still fair.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
A mature grand cru Burgundy, a Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 1990 or 1999. Hopefully I’ll be able to afford it by then.