Flash-grilled: Mike Davies

Mike-Davies-chef-director-of-The-Camberwell-Arms-in-London-on-his-new-cookbook.jpg
Credit: Haarala Hamilton

The chef director of The Camberwell Arms in London on his new cookbook, the perils of butchery, and why pizza is 'the pinnacle of cookery'.

What was your first industry job?

Working in a fish a chip shop in Norbiton in South West London. It was near a train station, and was super busy, two guys in the kitchen, one on the fryer and the other on the grill and the till (taking and wrapping takeaway orders) very fast and very fun.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

I think I’d like to be a writer. I've just written my first cookbook, Cooking for People. I enjoyed it, but I’ve always liked writing.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

Vicky, my operations director, is the hardest working person I know. She excels at her job, day in day out, inspires the team and leads from the front. A hospitality legend through and through.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

I hate the texture of flour, it makes me shiver and cringe, nerve shredding.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?

We were part of a doxing campaign at one point, when someone from the alt right thought that I was someone who I wasn’t and then orchestrated a barrage of super spiteful but ultimately quite funny Google and Tripadvisor reviews, including being called 'a synagogue of Satan'.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…

Ingredient focussed, simple, accessible, but still desirable.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?

2/10 for Frank’s Café in our first year, they called my partner Frank Boxer a 'Trustafarian'.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

Be punctual.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

I love my mincer. So versatile, and helpful for a use-up.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

Probably pizza. I love pizza, fresh bread with stuff on it, the pinnacle of cookery.

À la carte or tasting menu?

À la carte.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

At Araki when it first opened in London, Frank and I went and all the other diners for the evening had cancelled. Mitsuhiro Araki was so warm and hospitable, we felt so cared for in a totally unique and special way, with food that was flawless from start to finish.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?

In-N-Out Burger in California is just the best. But in this country I like Shake Shack.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?

Crispy aromatic duck.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

MasterChef.

What’s the most overrated food?

Small plates. Designed to trick you into thinking they are cheaper, but the meal always ends up being more expensive.

You’re a restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?

Lists of the best places and if possible how people respond to them. I’d love for people to walk out of their doors and choose somewhere without being influenced by anything other than themselves.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

My dad died in 2022, honestly it would be a dream to have dinner with him again.

What’s your earliest food memory?

I have lots. I was lucky to grow up in a house with my mum being an amazing cook, but the first thing that came to mind was this gooseberry and elderflower ice cream that she used to make. It’s a Delia recipe, super sweet and tart at the same time and I remember clearly not wanting to stop eating it.

Twitter or Instagram?

Ideally neither. But I don’t have Twitter, so I suppose it’s Instagram.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?

In 2023 I slipped whilst butchering a beef leg and put a knife into my left wrist. I cut 40% of the ulnar artery and 20% of the sensory nerve. There was a lot of blood, and I have permanent nerve damage from it, but honestly I was lucky it wasn’t worse.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

The Blythe hill tavern in between my house and Catford is my favourite pub in London. It’s Irish owned and run, the bar tenders wear a shirt and tie, and they’ll bring your Guinness to your table.

What’s your tipple of choice?

Very, very cold lager.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?

Crispy cold lager and salt and vinegar crisps. World class.

What do you consider to be your signature dish?

I’m not sure I’m into the idea of signatures really, but we’ve had pork fat, scotch bonnets and pickled peppers on toast on at the pub since day one and it’s a banger. I’ve got a recipe for it in my book.

Cooking For People by Mike Davies (Pavilion, £30) is out now