The top line: An Eastern Europe-inspired wine and vinyl bar in Notting Hill. Sova comes from the same stable as Soho-based Slavic restaurant Zima, which recently celebrated its tenth birthday. The 40-cover venture focuses on low-intervention wines from countries including Georgia, Armenia and Ukraine. The concise but considered list has been put together by sommelier Cristian Vega, whose CV includes London’s Wilton’s, Pollini at Ladbroke Hall and Le Boudin Blanc. The kitchen is overseen by Moldovan-born chef Denis Calmis, who has created a simple sharing menu combining classical European technique with Eastern European character. Sova has taken over the site that was previously home to Zima’s Notting Hill outpost, which closed earlier this year after around 15 months of trading.
On the menu: Cold starters include slow-roasted peppers with anchovies and dill oil; beef tartare on Borodinsky bread with horseradish mayonnaise; and a selection of Slavic cheeses. Mains feature whisky- and honey-roasted baby chicken with green salsa; crispy sea bass with fennel, grapefruit and peas finished with tarragon; and miso-glazed duck confit with roasted Jerusalem artichokes and plum sauce. Desserts are a tight selection of creative options, including dark chocolate mousse with sea buckthorn, and sour cherry and buckwheat crumble with cream. The wines lean towards the cleaner end of the low-intervention spectrum, with highlights including a Serbian pinot grigio, a Bulgarian-made blend of Viognier, Chardonnay and the local grape Tamaianka, and an impressive traditional-method Ukrainian wine that gives English sparkling a run for its money.
The vibe: Located on Blenheim Crescent, just off the northern end of Notting Hill’s Portobello Road, Sova has a layout well suited to a wine bar, with a long bar at the front leading through to a more spacious, comfortable area at the rear. Designed by AIYA Bureau, the interiors draw on natural, muted tones and layered textures such as wood, linen and clay-like surfaces. Low lighting creates pockets of intimacy throughout, while vinyl records and wine bottles line the shelves.
And another thing: Sova translates as ‘owl’ in several Slavic languages.
9 Blenheim Crescent, London W11 2EE