Flash-grilled: Ethan Pack

Ethan Packis the head chef of Three Sheets Soho
Ethan Pack is the head chef of Three Sheets Soho (©Three Sheets)

The head chef at Three Sheets Soho on Nigel Slater, deconstructed beef tartare and cooking “like an English grandad that went to culinary school”.

What was your first industry job?

I had a weekend job as a potwash in a local pub.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

I’d probably give writing a go.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

Nigel Slater, because he’s a bloody legend.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

Dirty fingernails.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?

A guest once asked for all the individual components of the beef tartare to be served separately so they could mix it themselves, as “how could you possibly know my tastes?”. I think they were a little overwhelmed when 11 individual ramekins arrived at their table… I do wonder if they also ask for a deconstructed Big Mac.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence

Just tasty suits me.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?

Luckily, nothing really comes to mind.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

Always ask for the next job. Potatoes are peeled—what’s next? Service is set—what’s next? If you’re visibly eager to learn, people will pick up on it and give you more interesting jobs. You’ll learn the whole kitchen faster and progress more quickly within the team.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

A bit boring, but my knife. It’s the one thing I use every single day without fail.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

Steak and chips with peppercorn sauce, followed by an enormous bowl of ice cream—bucket-sized.

À la carte or tasting menu?

Tasting menu. I love both, but I quite like not having to make decisions when I go out to eat. I also tend to over-order à la carte because I always want to try everything.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

Maaemo in Oslo—the most thoughtful and genuinely delicious meal I’ve ever had.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?

I used to order Bleecker Burger far too often when I lived close enough. The blue burger is annoyingly good.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?

My mate Anthony, when he was at Anglo (rest in peace to the restaurant, not him), had this amazing scallop, dill and rhubarb dish that tasted like the best pickle juice you’ve ever had. I think about it at least once a week.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

Hard pass on both.

What’s the most overrated food?

Lobster’s usually pretty overrated.

You’re a restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?

Anyone who’s rude to service staff.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

Mary Berry and my gran—I reckon they’d have a great time together.

What’s your earliest food memory?

I was bawling my eyes out slicing onions, helping my dad cook dinner. Halfway through, I stormed off to my room and reappeared a couple of minutes later wearing swimming goggles, ready to finish the job.

TikTok or Instagram?

Instagram.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?

I’m lucky enough to have never had any near-death experiences (that I can remember, anyway).

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

I’m not really one for clubbing. I’ll usually go to a nice bar or pub with mates. One of my favourites is Lowcountry in Shoreditch—great whisk(e)y and great chat.

What’s your tipple of choice?

A lager beer.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?

Fried chicken and picklebacks.

What do you consider to be your signature dish?

I don’t think I really have one, but friends will always tell me when they think something is an “Ethan” dish, so I probably have a certain style. My partner Ella once told me I cook like an English grandad that went to culinary school.