What was your first industry job?
My first chef job was at the Begging Bowl in Peckham. But my first ever kitchen shift was at my local pub as a ‘kitchen assistant’. They had me wash lettuce for a whole five minutes then I was elbow-deep in pot wash for the rest of the evening.
If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
Probably back to what I used to do, working for an NGO in sustainability.
What industry figure do you most admire, and why?
Josh (Owens-Baigler), the director and founder of Angelina. He is an all-round good human who tries to make the industry a better place. He is passionate, generous, hard-working and a visionary.
What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?
Knuckle cracking, spatulas and spoons left inside pans and pots while cooking, chefs not showing up on time... I could go on!
What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?
Odd, but I guess it was meant in a nice way: “God bless your hands”.
Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…
90% precision, 5% inspired by someone else’s cooking, 5% percent winging it, finished with a squeeze of citrus.
What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?
Not so sure I remember a ‘worst’ review, but a guest recently described one of the dishes on our tasting menu simply as ‘unnecessary’.
What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
Learn how to walk before you run - get really good at the smaller prep jobs before moving on to more technical stuff. The way you work - methodical, organised and tidy - counts as much as your knife skills. Show up on time, be ready to handle high pressure, let your hard work speak for itself.
Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
Hmm, not a kitchen item, but I really rely on my phone - orders, calculator, suppliers, food photos, recipe notes. That or a good coffee machine.
What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
To start, a classic steak tartare. Followed by a small plate of chef’s-choice sashimi. Then, a cheese fondue with crusty bread, a citrusy green salad and a mountain of gherkins. To finish, mint choc chip ice cream.
À la carte or tasting menu?
À la carte... but I will admit, I am the most indecisive person ever, so a tasting menu may be more suited.
What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?
My most memorable meal was as an exchange student in Vienna, at a student place called Selbstverständlich. I had spinach strudel with gorgonzola sauce, to the soundtrack of Massive Attack’s Mezzanine. I was young and impressionable -being far away from home, a newfound independence, the company, the food and hearing the track Teardrop for the first time.
What’s your favourite fast-food joint?
It’s a bit boring, but I’m a fan of the Pret sandwich and their dark chocolate-covered almonds. Or as a post-night out snack, especially in the thick of the Canadian winter, La Banquise (a poutine place in Tran-Thanh’s home city of Montreal).
What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?
Cacio e pepe? Three ingredients - pasta, pecorino and enough cracked black pepper to make your eyes water. So simple, so delicious.
MasterChef or Great British Menu?
MasterChef I guess? But I don’t really watch either.
What’s the most overrated food?
Foie gras and macarons.
You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?
Micro herbs as garnish when they don’t add anything flavour-wise. Square dinner plates.
Who would your dream dinner party guests be?
I’d round up all my closest and dearest living on different continents. No celebrities, I wouldn’t feel relaxed around famous people. Then maybe The Dude from The Big Lebowski, so we can recite lines from the film and have a laugh.
What’s your earliest food memory?
Cháo -a comforting Vietnamese ginger rice soup (similar to congee) my mum prepared when I was sick.
TikTok or Instagram?
Insta.
What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?
Not sure about close to death but I’ve had a couple of close encounters whilst on my bike on London roads over the years...
Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?
A swim at the lido followed by a boozy, decadent lunch, leading into a long session at the pub.
What’s your tipple of choice?
Cold and crisp session IPA.
What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?
A glass of Franciacorta, a bag of Wotsits and slices of saucisson sec.
What do you consider to be your signature dish?
I’m not sure about a signature dish but I do like to create crudo dishes with surprising fruity elements. A popular one recently has been madai (Japanese red seabream) with soy-compressed Cuore del Vesuvio tomatoes, strawberry ponzu and tarragon oil. Away from the restaurant I love cooking chả cá lã vọng. A Vietnamese dish of turmeric and galangal grilled fish with dill.