Earlier this week it was announced that a major Italian casual dining chain was bringing a US-based fried chicken concept to the UK, with plans to open around 50 sites in the coming years. The chicken brand, known for its hot chicken sandwich, offers a range of spice levels, including one so high on the Scoville scale that customers are required to sign a waiver before ordering.
If you think you’ve heard this somewhere before, it’s because you have. This time round the Italian casual dining chain in question is Pizza Express, which is taking Houston Hot Chicken to these shores - not to be confused with Azzurri Group, which introduced Dave’s Hot Chicken - another waiver waving hotter than hell chicken slinger - to the UK market last year. With aims to open a similar number of restaurants over here as Dave’s - 50 rather than 60 - the move is uncannily familiar, making Houston Hot Chicken president Brian Simowitz’ claims that it was “bringing something unexpected and exciting to chicken consumers” sound rather hollow.
Pizza Express’ play for the lucrative fried chicken market has not come out of the blue. There had been noise for a few months that it was intending to make its move, although it was not clear with what brand, but it’s timing does feel a little off. For a brand that prides itself on being a pioneer, almost single-handedly creating the blueprint for the UK’s pizza sector and the casual dining market that still exists today, its announcement feels a bit stale.
This is not to say Pizza Express’ intentions don’t make sense. The fried chicken market in the UK is soaring, with key players such as KFC, Popeyes, Wingstop and Slim Chicken all hailing from the US, and the board at Pizza Express will likely have had its head turned by the Azzurri’s revelations that its first Dave’s Hot Chicken UK location on Shaftesbury Avenue is its biggest and highest-grossing opening to date. Yet the group is gambling on how long it can retain its momentum, with some signs suggesting that the hype is already starting to fade – there has been talk of Azzurri preparing a sale of the chicken brand. While Pizza Express says it expects to open a modest three Houston Hot Chicken sites in the UK next year, its plans for 50 over the next three years seem bold, especially considering there are currently only around 30 sites in its home country.
Then there’s Pizza Express’ CEO Paula Mackenzie, who is no stranger to fried chicken, having been at KFC UK & Ireland for almost a decade. Mackenzie will know the market inside out and will understand what Houston Hot Chicken might have to do differently to stand out in an increasingly competitive sector and will no doubt play a very important role in trying to make it a success over here. She will also be very aware of her old employer’s response to the prevailing chicken trends with its biggest expansion of its boneless menu to date as it targets the next generation of customers.
For a brand that prides itself on being a pioneer, its announcement feels a bit stale
While it might seem a bit unfair to drag up Pizza Express’ previous and unsuccessful tilt at the chicken market a decade ago with its Reys brand, which went up against the might of Nando’s but also the growing flock of rotisserie chicken shops at the time, it should nonetheless highlight the dangers of a brand moving into uncharted territory. That said, Pizza Express appears to be having more success with chicken with its delivery only Mac & Wings concept. By this time doing it with an established brand, albeit one that is just six years old, it should have a much better chance of success, but it is by no means a slam dunk.
For me, the biggest question mark remains over the choice of US brand that Pizza Express is partnering with. When Dave’s Hot Chicken came over it felt exciting with its A-list backers and hype machine, and Popeyes and Wingstop have brought something different to the sector with their offers. This time round there’s a feeling of deja vu (which could also affect the forthcoming much-vaunted debut of Raising Cane’s over here) with a brand that has less resonance with UK consumers. The heat is definitely on.