Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
The summer of 1991. I was a solicitor at the time and an acquaintance invited me for lunch to cadge some free legal advice. He opened a Bourgogne Blanc from Puligny and, when he saw my eyes widen at the first sip, realised he could take me under his wing. He did exactly that for the next 15 years or so, until he finally shuffled off to the big Burgundy cellar in the sky.
Describe your wine list at Coruisk House
The wine list began 15 years ago with 25 entry-level wines. It now features more than 70 Burgundies alone, and is divided into sections such as “The Burgundy List”, “The Rhône List” and “The Italian List”, reflecting its priorities. Covid lockdown was the turning point. With little else to do, I developed an online fine wine off-sales portal, which gave me the confidence to buy in some of the wines I loved.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Just after Covid, we hosted a wine dinner with Marc-Emmanuel Cyrot of Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau joining via Zoom from Pommard. Gordon Davidson of Corney & Barrow was due to host but caught Covid, and then Marc got it too. Determined not to let us down, both dialled in while unwell, leaving me to host while also cooking a seven-course tasting menu. The problem was that Zoom’s voice activation kept switching the screen between them, so our guests spent much of the evening watching alternating coughing fits.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Many winemakers, but listening to François Millet explain the distinction between structure and minerality was like sitting at the feet of Socrates.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I have traditionally spurned Aligoté, but every now and again I’m reminded that, in the hands of a good producer, it can be excellent. Ours comes from François Carillon.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
“Zesty and fresh”; “crisp and zesty”; “fresh and crisp”. Also, “orchard fruit”. What kind of orchard are we talking about? Bramley apples, peaches or cherries?
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
It’s a style rather than a specific wine. Over time, we’ve found our sweet spot to be village-level Burgundies with an extra bit of quality - perhaps the vineyard sits next to a premier cru, comes from old vines or is simply exceptionally well made. It keeps the price point manageable, which is becoming increasingly difficult in Burgundy.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Roast venison fillet and Clos de la Roche.
Old World or New World?
You haven’t been paying attention, have you?
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Being served Petit Chablis when the wine list says Chablis. Petit Chablis is not Chablis; equally, Chablis is not Petit Chablis. Both can be excellent in their own right, but they are different appellations, often with different geology. The clue is on the label, and that’s what should be reflected on the wine list. Also, wine lists that simply throw names onto a page and hope something sticks.
Who is your favourite producer right now? (and why?)
I tend to stick with a core group of favourites and gradually expand my knowledge of them. In Burgundy, I’m enjoying getting to know the range at Domaine Matrot, which excels at the regional and village levels that are so important to us. Further afield, I’m slowly being weaned off Burgundy by the tobacco notes of Ridolfi’s Brunello di Montalcino.
As a chef, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“Where did you train?” “Here,” I say, “and you paid for it.” As someone who is largely self-taught, I’ve had to reinvent the wheel a few times.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
That’s a tricky question for a specialist in Burgundy, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Barolo, Montalcino and a little Bordeaux. Within Burgundy, it’s the cooler outliers that are coping best with climate change — Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and further south into Mâcon. Climate change is a huge issue. When we first came here, the eight Munros of Knoydart and Kintail visible from our car park were snow-covered from October to March, camouflaging mountain hares and ptarmigan. Not anymore.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Predictably, I’m afraid, it would be Chambertin. As Hilaire Belloc said: “I forget the name of the place; I forget the name of the girl; but the wine was Chambertin.” Or perhaps something from DRC. Then again, maybe I’d go white in honour of the old codger who introduced me to Burgundy in the first place — a Montrachet, perhaps. Dear old Geoffrey, little did you know what you were starting.